AQUEOUS LIQUID COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ALKYLCELLULOSE, NON-VOLATILE OILS AND AT LEAST ONE SU

专利摘要:
The subject of the present invention is a liquid cosmetic makeup and / or lip care composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: at least 20% of water; preferably at least 30% water; at least ethylcellulose; at least octyldodecanol as the first non-volatile hydrocarbon oil; at least one phenyl silicone oil as a second non-volatile liquid oil at room temperature, i.e. 25 ° C, and atmospheric pressure, i.e. 760 mmHg; at least one third liquid oil at room temperature, i.e. 25 ° C., and atmospheric pressure, i.e. 760 mmHg, said third oil being selected from hydrocarbon oils different from said first oil; at least one surfactant, preferably nonionic surfactant.
公开号:FR3019462A1
申请号:FR1553010
申请日:2015-04-08
公开日:2015-10-09
发明作者:Florence Lahousse；Emilie Nguyen-Henin
申请人:LOreal SA；
IPC主号:

专利说明:

[0001] The present invention aims to provide aqueous liquid cosmetic compositions comprising alkylcellulose, in particular dedicated to the makeup and / or care of the lips or skin, in particular the lips, capable of providing a deposit, in particular of make-up, presenting good cosmetic properties, especially in terms of comfort, non-stickiness and shine. In general, the cosmetic compositions must impart an aesthetic effect when applied to the skin and / or the lips, and maintain this aesthetic effect over time. In fact, obtaining an aesthetic effect, after the application of a cosmetic composition, results from a set of properties intrinsic to the composition that are expressed in terms of makeup performance, cosmetic properties such as the comfort to the application (ease of application, sliding on application) and the port, freshness and / or no feeling of tightness), homogeneity, lightness and a satisfactory brightness of the deposit made with the composition.
[0002] In particular, obtaining a liquid composition which is homogeneous and stable over time at 24 ° C. and at 45 ° C., and whose deposit on the skin or the lips is homogeneous, fresh and light and of satisfactory gloss without developing stickiness, is a permanent concern of formulators working in the field of lipsticks, and other skin care products and / or lips.
[0003] Ethylcellulose, is already known in cosmetic and / or therapeutic compositions, as a film-forming agent, to facilitate the formation of a film on the skin and / or the lips, and to improve the resistance to water of this film. Unfortunately, ethylcellulose, and generally alkylcelluloses (with an alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms) has limited solubility in most solvents commonly used in cosmetic and / or dermatological formulations. In general, monoalcohols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, butanol, methanol or isopropanol, are preferred for solubilizing sufficient quantities of ethylcellulose in cosmetic compositions or pharmaceuticals. The evaporation of C2-C8 monoalcohols leads, after application of the corresponding cosmetic composition to the skin or the lips, on the one hand to a concentration of the deposit and, on the other hand, to the formation of a coating. surface of the skin or lips having a very good behavior. For example, the document WO 96/36310 proposes cosmetic compositions comprising especially ethylcellulose solubilized in ethyl alcohol (solvents "SDA 38B-190" or "SDA 40B-190"). However, these volatile mono-alcohols have the disadvantage of being potentially irritating to the skin and / or the lips, and therefore can be detrimental during repeated use on the skin. In order to overcome this problem, it has been proposed in US Pat. No. 5,908,631 to use, as an alternative to C2-C8 monoalcohols, a certain number of solvents for ethylcellulose, such as lanolin oil, certain triglycerides. , certain propylene glycol, neopentyl glycol esters, isostearyl lactate and mixtures thereof. Unfortunately, the substitution of volatile C2-C8 mono-alcohols by these non-volatile solvents may, on the other hand, be detrimental in terms of comfort and sensation of freshness and lightness of the resulting deposit. Therefore, there is still a need for cosmetic compositions, free of C2-C8 monoalcohols, comprising a sufficient amount of alkylcellulose, and capable of forming a deposit on the skin and / or the lips, and having properties of shine, comfort and that is little or not tacky. More particularly, there is a need for homogenous and time stable makeup and / or skin care and / or lip care compositions (especially for 72 hours at 24 ° C. and for 72 hours at 45 ° C. ), in particular that do not phase out, easy to apply and allowing to obtain a uniform deposit, light and fresh, non-migrating, in particular little or not sticky and satisfactory gloss, An object of the invention is to provide a composition whose texture is homogeneous and stable at 24 ° C. and at 45 ° C. The present invention is specifically intended to meet these needs. As can be seen from the examples presented below, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to satisfy the aforementioned expectations by formulating the alkylcellulose in the form of a dispersion in water, with a mixture of specific oils distinct from monoalcohols. in C2-C8. Thus, according to a first of its aspects, the subject of the present invention is a liquid cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: at least 20% of water; preferably at least 30% water; at least one of alkylcellulose, preferably at least 1% of ethylcellulose; at least one first oil, said first oil being a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, chosen from: C 10 -C 26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols; monoesters, diesters, triesters, optionally hydroxyls, of a C2-C8 mono or polycarboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol; esters of a C2-C8 polyol and of one or more C2-C8 carboxylic acids; at least one second oil, said second oil being a non-volatile oil chosen from silicone and / or fluorinated oils; at least one third oil, said third oil being chosen from hydrocarbon oils different from said first oil; at least one surfactant, preferably nonionic surfactant.
[0004] Advantageously, a cosmetic composition according to the invention is homogeneous, stable (no exudation phenomenon or phase shift) over time (especially after 72 hours, or even 1 month, at 24 ° C and 45 ° C), easy to apply to the skin and / or lips and provides access to a homogeneous deposit, thin, light and fresh and non-migrating and without feeling dry or tugging, no or little sticky and having a satisfactory gloss. The composition according to the invention is in liquid form at 20 ° C. By "liquid" is meant a composition capable of flowing under its own weight, at 20 ° C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), as opposed to so-called "solid" compositions. Preferably, the composition is a composition for makeup and / or care of the skin and / or the lips. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition is a product for the lips. Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a liquid lipstick, such as a gloss for example or an "ink" for the lips.
[0005] By "ink" is meant a very fluid composition whose viscosity is lower than that of a conventional gloss. A lip ink can be applied with a lip brush, for example, and provides a finer deposit than that obtained with a conventional lip gloss composition. In general, the thickness of a film obtained with an "ink" type composition is preferably between 5 μm and 30 μm, preferably between 5 and 201 μm. The composition according to the invention also relates to a process for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips. A composition according to the invention is also particularly suitable for the use of water-soluble dyes. As is apparent from the examples below, the combination of oils considered according to the invention is particularly advantageous for formulating the alkylcelluloses, preferably such as ethylcellulose, within said composition. A composition according to the invention advantageously allows the implementation of an effective amount of alkylcellulose. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "effective amount" is understood to mean an amount sufficient to obtain the desired effect, as described above.
[0006] In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 1%, and particularly preferably at least 2% by weight (in dry matter) of alkylcellulose (preferentially ethylcellulose), relative to the total weight of the composition. . In a particularly preferred manner, a composition according to the invention comprises from 2 to 60% by weight of alkylcellulose (preferably ethylcellulose), and more preferably from 2.5 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 3 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. . By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium that is particularly suitable for applying a composition according to the invention to the skin and / or the lips. Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a viscosity at 20 ° C of less than 1.5 Pa.s. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a viscosity of between 0.05 and 1.5 Pa.s, preferably between 0.08 and 1 Pa.s. According to this embodiment, the visco of a gloss and an ink is included.
[0007] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention has a viscosity of between 0.1 and 0.7 Pa.s. Protocol for measuring the viscosity: According to this embodiment, when the composition according to the invention is in the form of a paste at 20 ° C. (by paste or butter, it is meant a composition which is therefore not solid, and of which it is possible to measure the viscosity) its viscosity can be measured according to the following protocol: The measurement of the viscosity is carried out at 20 ° C., using a RHEOMAT RM 180 viscometer equipped with a mobile No. 2 for the very fluid formula (whose viscosity is less than 0.7 Pa; s) or a mobile 3 for slightly thicker formulas whose viscosity is greater than 0.7 Pa.s, in particular between 0 , 7 and 1.5 Pa.s, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the mobile (time at which a stabilization of the viscosity and the speed of rotation of the mobile) is observed, at a shear of 200 s1.
[0008] The composition according to the invention has, at 20 ° C., a viscosity of between 0.05 and 1.5 Pa.s, preferably between 0.08 and 1 Pa.s. In a particularly preferred manner, the viscosity at 20 ° C. of a composition according to the invention is between 0.1 to 0.7 Pa.s.
[0009] A composition according to the invention is preferably in the form of an oil emulsion in an aqueous phase, conventionally called "oil-in-water emulsion". According to one particular embodiment, a composition of the invention comprises less than 5% by weight of silicone surfactant (s), in particular less than 4% by weight, in particular less than 3% by weight, more particularly less 2% by weight, in particular less than 1% by weight, or even totally free of silicone surfactant. According to another of its aspects, the present application relates to a cosmetic process for makeup and / or care of the lips and / or the skin, in particular the lips, comprising at least one step of applying to the lips and / or the skin at least one composition as defined above ETHYLCELLULOSE A composition according to the invention comprises at least alkylcellulose whose alkyl residue comprises between 1 and 6 carbon atoms, preferably between 1 and 3 carbon atoms, of According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the alkylcellulose (preferentially ethylcellulose) is present in a composition according to the invention in a content (in dry matter) ranging from 1 to 60% by weight. In a particularly preferred manner, the composition according to the invention comprises from 2 to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 2.5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. The alkylcellulose is a cellulose alkyl ether comprising a chain consisting of 3-anhydroglucose units linked together by acetal bonds, each anhydroglucose unit having three replaceable hydroxyl groups, all or part of these hydroxyl groups being able to react according to following reaction: RONa + C2H5C1 ROC2H5 + NaCl, where R represents a cellulose radical Advantageously, the alkylcellulose is chosen from methylcellulose, ethylcellulose and propylcellulose.according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the alkylcellulose is ethylcellulose is an ethyl cellulose ether, the total substitution of the three hydroxyl groups would lead for each anhydroglucose unit to a degree of substitution of 3, in other words to an alkoxy content of 54.88%. The ethylcellulose polymers used in a cosmetic composition according to the invention are preferentially polymeric polymers. res having a degree of substitution with ethoxy groups ranging from 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, in other words comprising a content of ethoxy groups ranging from 44 to 50%. According to a preferred embodiment, the alkylcellulose (preferably ethylcellulose) is used in a composition of the invention in the form of particles dispersed in an aqueous phase, in the image of a latex-type dispersion or pseudolatex.
[0010] The techniques for preparing these latex dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art. Particularly suitable as an aqueous dispersion of ethylcellulose, the product marketed by FMC Biopolymer under the name "AQUACOAT ECD-30", which consists of a dispersion of ethylcellulose at a rate of about 26.2% by weight (in water and stabilized with sodium lauryl sulfate and cetyl alcohol According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous dispersion of ethylcellulose, in particular the product "AQUACOAT ECD", can be used in a proportion of 3 to 90% by weight, in particular from 5 to 60% by weight, preferably from 5 to 50% by weight of ethylcellulose dispersion relative to the total weight of the composition As mentioned above, the alkylcellulose is used according to The present invention, in combination with a mixture of oils as described more particularly below: PHYSIOLOGICALLY ACCEPTABLE MEDIUM In addition to the compounds indicated above, a composition according to the invention n comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.
[0011] By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium which is particularly suitable for the application of a composition of the invention to the skin and / or the lips, such as water, oils or organic solvents commonly used in the cosmetic compositions. The physiologically acceptable medium (tolerability, toxicology and acceptable touch) is generally adapted to the nature of the medium to which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance under which the composition is to be packaged. FATTY PHASE The composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase and in particular a liquid fatty phase, at least one first non-volatile hydrocarbon-specific oil and at least one second non-volatile oil chosen from silicone and / or fluorinated oils or oils. different hydrocarbon compounds from said first oil. By "oil" is meant a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). FIRST SPECIFIC HYDROCARBONIC NON-VOLATILE OIL The composition according to the invention comprises one or more first non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (s) chosen from: C 10 -C 26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols; monoesters, diesters, triesters, optionally hydroxylated, of a C2-C8 mono or polycarboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol; esters of a C2-C8 polyol and of one or more C2-C8 carboxylic acids. By "non-volatile" is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 0.02 mm of 15 Hg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10-3 mm of Hg (0.13 Pa). Preferably, said "first oil" is chosen from: - C 10 -C 20 monoalcohols, - optionally hydroxylated monoesters, a C 2 -C 8 carboxylic acid and a C 2 -C 8 alcohol; Diester, optionally hydroxylated; a C2-C8 dicarboxylic acid and a C2-C8 alcohol; the optionally hydroxylated triesters of a C 2 -C 8 carboxylic triacid and a C 2 -C 8 alcohol, the esters of a C 2 -C 8 polyol and one or more C 2 -C 8 carboxylic acids. The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of an oxygen atom and free of heteroatoms such as N, Si, F and P. L The hydrocarbon oil is therefore distinct from a silicone oil and a fluorinated oil. In the present case, said first oils comprise at least one oxygen atom.
[0012] In particular, said first non-volatile hydrocarbon oil comprises at least one alcohol function (it is then an "alcohol oil") and / or at least one ester function (it is then an "ester oil" ). The ester oils that can be used in the compositions according to the invention can in particular be hydroxylated. According to one particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises one or more first non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (s) in a content ranging from 2% to 75%, preferably ranging from at 50%, in particular from 5% to 40% by weight, relative to its total weight. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and the alkylcellulose (in particular ethylcellulose) are used in the composition according to the invention in a non-volatile "raw materials" oil (s) weight ratio. (s) hydrocarbon (s) / alkylcellulose between 0.5 and 20, preferably between 1 and 15. Particularly preferably, the weight ratio "first (s) oil (s)" nonvolatile hydrocarbon (s) ( s) / alkylcellulose is between 2 and 10. More particularly, the first hydrocarbon-based nonvolatile oil used in a composition according to the invention may in particular have properties as a plasticizing agent, that is to say allowing to give flexibility and comfort to the deposit formed with the composition according to the invention. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, said first oil is a C 10 -C 26 alcohol, preferably a monoalcohol, preferably branched when it comprises at least 16 carbon atoms. Preferably, the C 10 -C 26 alcohols are saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, and comprise from 10 to 26 carbon atoms. Preferably, the C 10 -C 26 alcohols are fatty alcohols, preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms. As examples of fatty alcohols that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of linear or branched fatty alcohols of synthetic origin, or else natural, for example alcohols derived from vegetable matter (copra, palm kernel, palm ...) or animal (tallow ..). Of course, other long-chain alcohols may also be used, such as, for example, ether alcohols or even so-called Guerbet alcohols. Finally, it is also possible to use certain longer or shorter cuts of alcohols of natural origin, such as for example coco (C12 to C16) or tallow (C16 to C18) or diol or cholesterol type compounds. It is preferable to use a fatty alcohol comprising from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. As particular examples of fatty alcohols that may be used as preferred in the context of the present invention, there may be mentioned lauryl alcohol, myristic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, palmitic alcohol, oleic alcohol, behenic alcohol, erucic alcoholic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol or alcohol. hexyldecyl, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof.
[0013] Preferably, said first oil is chosen from octyldodecanol and isostearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, said first oil is octyldodecanol. According to a second embodiment, said first oil is an ester oil chosen from: - monoesters of a C2-C8 carboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxylated, - the diester of a dicarboxylic acid C2-C8 and a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxyl; such as diisopropyl adipate, diethyl-2-hexyl adipate, dibutyl adipate, or diisostearyl adipate, triesters of a C2-C8 triacid carboxylic acid and a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxylated, such as citric acid esters, such as trioctyl citrate, triethyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate, tributyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate, esters of a C2-C8 polyol and one or more C2-carboxylic acids; C8, such as glycol and monoacid diesters, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, or triesters of glycol and monoacids such as triacetin. SECOND NON-VOLATILE OIL SILICONE AND / OR FLUORATED According to one of its aspects, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one second non-volatile oil chosen from silicone oils and / or fluorinated oils. By "non-volatile" is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 0.02 mm Hg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10-3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa). Preferably, the non-volatile oil (s) chosen from silicone oils and / or fluorinated oils is / are present in a total content ranging from 5% to 75% by weight. weight, preferably 8% to 40% by weight, or 10 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises one or more silicone (preferably phenyl) and / or fluorinated nonvolatile oils, in a proportion of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 5 to 75% by weight, particularly preferably from 8 to 45% by weight.
[0014] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises a total content of non-volatile oils (that is to say all the non-volatile oils of the composition, whatever their nature) of between 10 and 60% by weight, preferably between 20 and 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the non-volatile oils (that is to say all the non-volatile oils of the composition, whatever their nature) and the alkylcellulose are used in the composition according to the invention. in a weight ratio nonvolatile oil (s) / alkylcellulose of between 1 and 20, preferably between 4 and 15. Non-volatile silicone oil According to a first particularly preferred embodiment, the non-volatile oil is a silicone oil . By "silicone oil" is meant an oil comprising at least one Si atom. The nonvolatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention may especially be chosen from silicone oils having in particular a viscosity at 25 ° C. of greater than or equal to 9 centistokes ( cSt) (9 x 10 'm 2 / s), and less than 800 000 cSt, preferably between 50 and 600 000 cSt, preferably between 100 and 500 000 cSt. The viscosity of this silicone can be measured according to ASTM D-445. According to a first embodiment, the non-volatile silicone oil is a non-phenyl silicone oil.
[0015] The non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oil may be chosen from: non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), PDMSs comprising pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups and / or silicone chain ends, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms. PDMSs comprising aliphatic and / or aromatic groups, or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups, polyalkylmethylsiloxanes optionally substituted with a fluorinated group such as polymethyltrifluoropropyldimethylsiloxanes, and polyalkylmethylsiloxanes substituted with groups. functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups, polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures thereof. According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention contains at least one non-phenyl silicone oil, in particular such as a linear (that is to say non-cyclic) oil.
[0016] As representative of these non-volatile and non-phenylated linear silicone oils, mention may be made of polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyldimethicones; vinylmethylmethicones; as well as silicones modified with aliphatic groups, optionally fluorinated, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups.
[0017] The non-phenyl silicone oil may in particular be chosen from the silicones of formula (I): ## STR1 ## wherein R 1, R 2, R 5 and R 6 are , together or separately, an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, R3 and R4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical, an amine radical or a hydroxyl radical, X is an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or an amine radical, n and p being integers chosen so as to have a fluid compound, in particular having a viscosity at 25 ° C. of between 9 centistokes (cSt) (9 x 10-6 m2 / s) and 800,000 cSt. As non-volatile silicone oils that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the compounds of formula (I) for which: the substituents R 1 to R 6 and X represent a methyl group, p and n are such that the viscosity is 500,000 cSt, as that sold under the name SE30 by the company General Electric, that sold under the name AK 500000 by Waker, the one sold under the name Mirasil DM 500,000 by Bluestar and that sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 500,000 cSt by Dow Corning Corporation. the substituents R 1 to R 6 and X represent a methyl group, p and n are such that the viscosity is 60,000 cSt, such as that sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 60000 CS by Dow Corning and that sold under the name Wacker Belsil DM 60,000 by the company Wacker. the substituents R 1 to R 6 and X represent a methyl group, p and n are such that the viscosity is 350 cSt, such as that sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350 CS by Dow Corning. the substituents R 1 to R 6 represent a methyl group, the X group represents a hydroxyl group, n and p are such that the viscosity is 700 cSt, such as that sold under the name Baysilone Fluid T0.7 by the company Momentive.
[0018] According to a second embodiment, a composition according to the invention contains at least one non-volatile phenyl silicone oil as a second non-volatile oil. As representative of these phenylated nonvolatile silicone oils, mention may be made of: the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula: ## STR1 ## wherein R groups independently represent methyl or phenyl, with the proviso that at least one R group is phenyl. Preferably, in this formula, the phenyl silicone oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four, at least five or at least six. the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula: ## STR2 ## in which the groups R represent, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl, with the proviso that at least one R group represents a phenyl. Preferably in this formula, said organopolysiloxane comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four or at least five. Mixtures of the phenyl organopolysiloxanes described above can be used. By way of example, mention may be made of mixtures of triphenylated, tetra- or penta-phenylated organopolysiloxane. the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula: Ph Ph Ph me-si-o-si-o-si-me Ph Me Ph (III) in which Me represents methyl, Ph represents phenyl. Such phenyl silicone is especially manufactured by Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1,3,5-trimethyl 1,1,3,5,5pentaphenyl trisiloxane, INCI name: trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane). The reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid can also be used. the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula: (IV) in which Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1000, and X represents -CH 2 -CH (CH 3) (Ph). the phenylated silicone oils corresponding to the following formula (V): Me Me MIe X-Si-HO-Si + O-Si-X YI Me Me Me Me Me1 OR 1 Me Si 0 Si 0 Si 1 Me 1 Wherein Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR 'represents a group - OSiMe3 and y is 0 or ranges from 1 to 1000, z ranges from 1 to 1000, so that the compound (V) is a non-volatile oil. According to a first embodiment, y varies between 1 and 1000. It is possible to use, for example, trimethyl Siloxyphenyl Dimethicone, sold in particular under the reference BELSIL PDM 1000 sold by the company Wacker.
[0019] According to a second embodiment y is equal to 0. It is possible to use for example PHENYL TRIMETHYLSILOXY TRISILOXANE, in particular sold under the reference DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID. the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula (VI), and their mixtures: R, Si0 0 R, R1 11:03 m R, -O R, s Sip0 Ra (VI) in which: - Ri to Rio, independently each other are hydrocarbon radicals, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched, C 1 -C 30, m, n, p and q are, independently of one another, integers between 0 and 900, provided that the sum 'm + n + q' is different from 0. Preferably, the sum 'm + n + q' is between 1 and 100. Preferably, the sum 'm + n + p + q' is preferably between 1 and 900, more preferably between 1 and 800. Preferably, q is equal to 0. the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula (VII), and their mixtures: R 3 Si R 4 Si Ri-Si -0 R 2 Si 0 0 Si (CH 2 R 5 Si-CH, R 6 mn (VII) in which: R 1 to R 6, independently of one another, are cyclic or branched linear or branched C 1 -C 3 hydrocarbon radicals, - m, n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, provided that the sum 'n + m' is between 1 and 100. Preferably, Ri to R6, independently of one another, represent a saturated, linear or branched, C 1 -C 30, especially C 1 -C 12, hydrocarbon radical, and in particular a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radical.
[0020] In particular, R 1 to R 6 may be identical, and furthermore may be a methyl radical. Preferably, one can have m = 1 or 2 or 3, and / or n = 0 and / or p = 0 or 1, in formula (VII). the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (VIII), and mixtures thereof: ## STR2 ## in which: R is a C 1 -C 30 alkyl radical; an aryl radical or an aralkyl radical, n is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, and m is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, with the proviso that the sum n + m varies from 1 to 100. In particular, the radicals R of the formula (VIII) and Ri to Rio defined above, may each represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, especially C 2 -C 20, in particular C 3 -C 16 and more particularly C 4 -C 10 alkyl radical, or a mono- or polycyclic C 6 -C 14 aryl radical, especially C 10 -C 13 or an aralkyl radical whose aryl and alkyl radicals are as defined above. Preferably, R of the formula (VIII) and R 1 to R 10 may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical. According to one embodiment, it is possible to use a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VIII) having a viscosity at 25 ° C. of between 5 and 1500 mm 2 / s (ie 5 to 1500 cSt), preferably having a viscosity of between 5 and 1000 mm2 / s (ie 5 to 1000 cSt).
[0021] Phenyltrimethicones of formula (VIII), such as DC556 from Dow Corning (22.5 cSt), Silbione 70663V30 from Rhône Poulenc (28 cSt), or diphenyldimethicones, such as oils, can be used as phenyltrimethicone silicone oil. Belsil, including Belsil PDM1000 (1000cSt), Belsil PDM 200 (200 cSt) and Belsil PDM 20 (20cSt) from Wacker. Values in parentheses represent viscosities at 25 ° C. the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula, and their mixtures: ## STR1 ## wherein: R 1, R 2, R 5 and R 6 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, R3 and R4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or an aryl radical, X is an alkyl radical having from 1 to 6 atoms of carbon, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical, n and p being chosen so as to give the oil a molecular weight by weight of less than 200 000 g / mol, preferably less than 150 000 g / mol and more preferably less than 100,000 g / mol. the phenyl silicones are more particularly chosen from phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, and mixtures thereof.
[0022] More particularly, the phenyl silicones are more chosen from phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the weight-average molecular weight of the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil according to the invention varies from 500 to 10,000 g / mol. As an example of preferred nonvolatile silicone oils, mention may be made of silicone oils such as: phenyl silicones (also called phenyl silicone oil) such as trimethylsiloxyethylene dimethicone (such as Belsil PDM 1000 from the company Wacker (MW = 9000 g / mol) (see formula (V) above), phenyl trimethicones (such as phenyl trimethicone sold under the trade name DC556 by Dow Corning), phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane (such as that sold under the name Dow Corning PH-1555 HRI cosmetic fluid by Dow Corning) (cf formula (III) above), non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having 2 to 24 carbon atoms; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the second non-volatile oil is a phenyl silicone oil. Preferably, a phenyl silicone oil is used. According to a preferred embodiment, the phenyl silicone oil is chosen from trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones.
[0023] According to a preferred embodiment, the non-volatile silicone oil (s) is (are) present in a total content ranging from 5% to 75% by weight, in particular from 10% to 40% by weight, preferably 15 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
[0024] Non-volatile fluorinated oil According to a second embodiment, the second non-volatile oil is a fluorinated oil. By "fluorinated oil" is meant an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
[0025] The fluorinated oils that may be used according to the invention may be chosen from fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers, fluorinated silicones as described in document EP-A-847752 and perfluorinated compounds.
[0026] By perfluorinated compounds is meant according to the invention compounds in which all the hydrogen atoms have been substituted by fluorine atoms. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the fluorinated oil according to the invention is chosen from perfluorinated oils.
[0027] As examples of perfluorinated oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of perfluorodecalin and perfluoperhydrophenanthrene. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the fluorinated oil chosen from perfluoperhydrophenanthrenes, and in particular Fiflow® products marketed by the company Creations Couleurs. In particular, it is possible to use the fluorinated oil whose INCI name is perfluoperhydrophenanthrene, sold under the reference FIFLOW 220 by the company F2 Chemicals. THIRD HYDROCARBON OIL DIFFERENT FROM SAID FIRST OIL The composition according to the invention comprises a third oil, said third oil being a hydrocarbon oil different from said first oil. According to a first preferred embodiment, the third hydrocarbon oil is a non-volatile oil. According to a first embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from apolar hydrocarbon oils. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "apolar oil" means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C., 6a, is equal to 0 (J / cm 3) 1/4. The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the HANSEN three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C. M. Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967). According to this Hansen space: - δp characterizes the LONDON dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks; - δp characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; - characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond, acid / base, donor / acceptor type, etc.); and δa is determined by the equation: δa = ((Sp2 8h2) 1/4 The parameters δp, δn, δD and δa are expressed in (J / cm3) 1/4, preferably the apolar hydrocarbon oil The nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as: paraffin oil or its derivatives - petrolatum oil, - naphthalene oil, - polybutylenes such as INDOPOL H-100 (molar mass or MW = 965 g / mol), INDOPOL H-300 (MW = 1340 g) / mol), INDOPOL H-1500 (MW = 2160 g / mol) marketed or manufactured by AMOCO, - hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as Parléam® marketed by the company NIPPON OIL FATS, PANALANE H-300 E marketed or manufactured by the company AMOCO (MW = 1340 g / mol), VISEAL 20000 marketed or manufactured by the company SYNTEAL (MW = 6000 g / mol), the REWOPAL PIB 1000 marketed or manufactured by WITCO (MW = 1000 g / mol), decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, in particular Indopol L-14, polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, such as: PURESYN (MW = 723 g / mol), PURESYN 150 (MW = 9200 g / mol) marketed or manufactured by MOBIL CHEMICALS, and mixtures thereof.
[0028] According to a second embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from polar hydrocarbon oils, different from said "first oil". In particular, the nonvolatile polar oil different from said first oil may be an ester oil, in particular having between 18 and 70 carbon atoms.
[0029] By way of examples, mention may be made of mono-, di- or tri-esters. The ester oils can be hydroxylated. Preferably, they are non-hydroxylated.
[0030] The non-volatile ester oil may preferably be chosen from: monoesters comprising between 18 and 40 carbon atoms in total, in particular monoesters of formula RiCOOR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a particularly branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R 1 + R 2 is 18, for example purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononanoate d isononyl, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-hexyl ethyl palmitate, octyledodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyl dodecyl stearate, octy-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearate isostearyl, octyldi-2-dodecyl benzoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, laurate 2-hexyl-decyl, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate. Preferably, they are esters of formula R 1 COROR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 4 to 40 atoms. carbon, R 1 and R 2 being such that R 1 + R 2 is 18. Preferably, the ester comprises between 18 and 40 carbon atoms in total. As preferred monoesters, there may be mentioned isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate and / or octy1-2-docecyl neopentanoate; Diesters, especially comprising between 18 and 60 carbon atoms in total, in particular between 18 and 50 carbon atoms in total. Diesters of dicarboxylic acid and of monoalcohols, such as diisostearyl malate or diesters of glycol and of monocarboxylic acids, such as neopentylglycol diheptanoate or polyglyceryl-2-diisostearate (especially such as compound under the commercial reference DERMOL DGDIS by Alzo); the triesters, in particular comprising between 35 and 70 carbon atoms in total, in particular such as the triesters of triacid carboxylic acid, such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate, or triesters of glycol and mono carboxylic acids such as triisostearate polyglycerol-2; Tetraesters, in particular having a total number of carbon ranging from 35 to 70, such as the tetraesters of penthaerythritol or of polyglycerol and of a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl of tetraisostearate, tetraisonanoate; pentaerythrityl, glyceryl 2-decyltetradecanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetra decyl-2 tetradecanoate; polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol, such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-diol; butanediol. Mention may in particular be made of the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer), or copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA; esters and polyesters of diol dimer and of mono- or dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of diol dimer and of fatty acid and esters of dimer diols and dimer of dicarboxylic acid, in particular being obtainable from a dicarboxylic acid dimer derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid in particular C8 to C34, in particular C14 to C22, in particular C16 to C20, and more particularly to C18, such as the esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dimers dilinoleic diols, for example such as those marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DD-DA7 °; vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymers, such as for example that sold under the name ANTARON V-216 (also called Ganex V216) by the company ISP (MW = 7300 g / mol), vegetable hydrocarbon-based oils such as triglycerides of fatty acids (liquid at room temperature), in particular of fatty acids having from 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or jojoba oil, in particular saturated triglycerides may be mentioned such as caprylic / capric triglyceride and mixtures thereof, for example such as that sold under the reference Myritol 318 from Cognis, glyceryl triheptanoate, glycerol trioctanoate, C18-36 acid triglycerides such as those marketed under the reference DUB TGI 24 marketed by Stéarineries Dubois), and unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil; - and their mixtures.
[0031] According to a preferred embodiment, the third oil is an apolar hydrocarbon oil, preferably non-volatile. Preferably, according to this embodiment, it is chosen from paraffin oil, liquid petroleum jelly, naphthalene oil, polybutylenes, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes, decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers. hydrogenated polydecenes and polydecenes, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises a total content of third (s) oil (s), preferably non-volatile (s), ranging from 0.5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight. % by weight, and more preferably from 2 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a second embodiment, the third hydrocarbon oil is a volatile oil. For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The volatile organic solvent (s) and the volatile oils of the invention are organic solvents and volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0 to 13 Pa at 40 000 Pa (10-g to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is an apolar oil. The apolar volatile hydrocarbon oil may have a flash point ranging from 40 ° C. to 102 ° C., preferably ranging from 40 ° C. to 55 ° C., and preferably ranging from 40 ° C. to 50 ° C. The hydrocarbon-based volatile oil may in particular be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and in particular: C8-C16 branched alkanes such as iso-alkanes (also known as isoparaffins) in C8 -C16, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or permetyls; linear alkanes, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and ntetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, and mixtures thereof, the undecane-tridecane mixture (cetol UT), the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Application WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the volatile hydrocarbon oil (s) may be present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, especially from 0.5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. Advantageously, the composition contains less than 10% by weight of mono-alcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably less than 5%. According to a particular embodiment, the composition may be free of monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition is free of volatile oil.
[0032] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises a total content of third (s) oil (s) ranging from 0.5% to 40% by weight, preferably ranging from 1 to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 2 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition comprises between 2 and 30% by weight of alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose, between 30 and 85% by weight of water, and between 10 and 50% by weight of non-volatile oils. Additional oils The composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the first non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and in addition to the "second nonvolatile oil" chosen from silicone oils and / or fluorinated oils and in addition to the third hydrocarbon oil different from said first oil, at least one additional oil different from these oils. In particular, the additional oil may be chosen from volatile silicone oils and / or volatile fluorinated oils.
[0033] According to a first embodiment, the additional volatile oil is a silicone oil and can in particular be chosen from silicone oils having a flash point ranging from 40 ° C. to 102 ° C., preferably having a flash point greater than 55 ° C. and less than or equal to 95 ° C, and preferably ranging from 65 ° C to 95 ° C. As additional volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicones having a viscosity at ambient temperature of less than 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 × 10 -2 m 2 / s), and having, in particular, from 2 to 10 silicon atoms, and in particular 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As the volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made, in particular, of dimethicones of viscosity 5 and 6 cSt, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. According to a second embodiment, the additional volatile oil is a fluorinated oil, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition is free of additional oil SOLID BODY: Wax (s) The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one solid fatty substance chosen from waxes, pasty fatty substances, and mixtures thereof. .
[0034] For the purposes of the invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C. up to 120 ° C. The waxes that may be used in a composition according to the invention are chosen from waxes, solid, deformable or not at room temperature, of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. In particular, it is possible to use hydrocarbon-based waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice wax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricurry wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax ; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, polymethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and wax copolymers and their esters. Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains. Among these, there may be mentioned hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, di-tetrastearate ( trimethyl-l, l, l, l, l, l, propane) sold under the name "HEST 2T-4S" by the company HETERENE, di (1,1,1-trimethylpropane) tetra-enehenate sold under the name HEST 2T-4B by the company HETERENE . By way of wax, mention may also be made of silicone waxes (C30-45 ALKYL DIMETHICONE) and fluorinated waxes. By way of wax, it is also possible to use the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in Application FR-A-2792190. As a wax, a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can be used alone. or in mixture. Such a wax is especially sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®" Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® "and" Kester Wax K 80 P® "by the company Koster Keunen, Preferably, said wax or waxes are chosen from waxes whose melting temperature (Tf) is less than or equal to 66 ° C., preferably less than or equal to 65 ° C. Preferably, the wax of Tf less than or equal to 66 ° C., preferably less than or equal to 65 ° C is selected from: Candelilla wax (64.3 ° C), polyglycerolated bee wax (63.1 ° C), ceresin wax (60.1 ° C), Ultrabee WD (61.3 ° C), pentaerylthrityl tetrastearate (63.0 ° C), tetracontanyl stearate (65.1 ° C), fatty acid wax (63.7 ° C); bee (62.6 ° C), Montan wax (63.4 ° C), sucrose polybutenate (64.1 ° C), Koster KPC-60 (61.7 ° C), Koster KPC-63 (65.2 ° C), ESTERS OF OLIVE OIL AND STEARYL ALCOHOL HYDROGENES (57 ° C) sold under the reference PHYTOWAX OLIVE 18 L 57 by Sophim, HYDROGENATED PALM OIL sold under the reference GV 60 by SIO (ADM), the POLYMETHYLENE WAX (54 °) marketed under the reference Cirebelle 303 by Cirebelle; POLYMETHYLENE WAX (40 ° C) sold under the reference Cirebelle 505 by Cirebelle, TRI-BEHENATE GLYCERYLE (60 ° C) sold under the reference SYNCROWAX HRC-PA- (M1-1) by Croda, and mixtures thereof.
[0035] Preferably, the composition may comprise at least one polymethylene wax, preferably chosen from POLYMETHYLENE WAX (54 °) sold under the reference Cirebelle 303 by Cirebelle; POLYMETHYLENE WAX (40 ° C) marketed under the reference Cirebelle 505 by Cirebelle, According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition is free of wax of Tf greater than 66 ° C. Indeed, during the preparation of a composition according to the invention, the introduction of a wax of Tf greater than 66 ° C, such as polyethylene wax, microcrystalline wax or carnauba wax, for example, can lead to the formation of lumps and balls, and thus prevent the obtaining of a smooth and homogeneous composition. By way of illustration, such waxes are in particular Carnauba wax (82.3 ° C.), Ozokerite (66.8 ° C.), microcrystalline wax (83.3 ° C.), polyethylene wax for example sold under ASENSA SC 211 by Honeywell (95.6 ° C), AC 540 wax (98.4 ° C), hydroxystearate of hydroxyoctasosanyl (76.8 ° C), hydrogenated castor wax (81, 7 ° C), AC400 wax (86.3 ° C), polyethylene wax for example sold under the name PERFORMALENE 500-L POLYETHYLENE of New Phase Technologies (77.3 ° C), hydrogenated Jojoba wax (69.3 ° C), , 4 ° C), rice bran wax (78.6 ° C), tricontanyl / PVP copolymer (68.8 ° C), octacosanyl stearate (72.5 ° C), polyethylene wax for example sold under the name PERFORMALENE 400 POLYETHYLENE from New Phase Technologies (71.8 ° C), the polyethylene wax for example sold under the name PERFORMALENE 655 POLYETHYLENE from New Phase Technologies (92.9 ° C), the wax of polyethyl alcohol (95.7 ° C), Koster K82P (69.6 ° C), polymethylalkyl dimethylsiloxane (67.8 ° C), polyethylenated alcohol wax (76.2 ° C), Fischer- Tropsch (79.3 ° C), behenyl alcohol (66.9 ° C), Chinese insect wax (81.1 ° C), Shellac wax (73.8 ° C), behenyl fumarate (74.5 ° C), didotriacontanyl distearate (70.7 ° C), Betawax RX-13750 (72.0 ° C), dipentaerythrytole hexastearate (67.7 ° C), ditrimethylolpropane tetrabenenate (67.5 ° C), Phytowax Ricin 16 L 64 (69.1 ° C), Phytowax Ricin 22 L 73 (76.6 ° C), Ouricury wax (81.0 ° C), and their mixtures.
[0036] Emulsifying silicone wax: According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one emulsifying silicone wax, preferably such as the product whose INCI name is BIS-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane, especially sold under the Dow Corning 2501 cosmetic wax reference by DOW CORNING.
[0037] The composition according to the invention may comprise from 1% to 20% by weight, or better still, from 2% to 15% by total weight of this emulsifying silicone wax relative to the total weight of the composition. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition does not comprise any additional wax, other than BIS-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane. Preferably, the wax is chosen from Candelilla wax and / or wax. polymethylene, and / or BIS-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane wax; and their mixtures. Preferably, the wax is a polymethylene wax. Preferably, the total content of wax is between 0% and 5% by weight, especially between 0.1% and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is free of wax. Paste fat body The composition considered according to the invention may further comprise at least one pasty fatty substance. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty fatty substance" (also referred to as pasty fatty substance) is understood to mean a lipophilic fat compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization and comprising at least one the temperature of 23 ° C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound may be less than 23 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 23 ° C. can represent 9 to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23 ° C is preferably between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight. For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a paste or a wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments . The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of paste or wax (as the case may be) placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C, at the rate of heating of 10 ° C / minute, then is cooled from 100 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the pasty or wax sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when the entirety of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in a liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.
[0038] The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DS C), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA instrument, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 ° C per minute, according to ISO 11357-3: 1999. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 23 ° C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C is preferably 30 to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably 50 to 100%, more preferably 60 to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The heat of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. The pasty fatty substance may be chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty fatty substance can be obtained synthetically from starting materials of plant origin. The pasty compound is advantageously chosen from lanolin and its derivatives, such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolines, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate or oxypropylenated lanolines; Vaseline, in particular that whose INCI name is petrolatum and marketed under the name ULTINIA WHITE PET USP by Perenco, 25-polyol ethers chosen from pentaerythritol and polyalkylene glycol ethers, fatty alcohol ethers. and sugar, and their mixtures. pentaerythritol ether and polyethylene glycol comprising 5 oxyethylenated units (50E) (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), pentaerythritol ether and polypropylene glycol comprising 5 oxypropylene units (5 PO) (CTFA name: PPG- Pentaerythrityl Ether), and their mixtures and more especially the mixture PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and soybean oil, sold under the name "Lanolide" by the company Vevy, a mixture in which the constituents are found in a 46/46/8 weight ratio: 46% PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, 46% PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and 8% soybean oil. - Polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds - Polymeric fluorinated compounds or non-vinyl polymers, in particular: homopolymers and copolymers of olefins, and especially vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymers, for example that sold under the name ANTARON V- 220 (also known as Ganex V220) by the company ISP; homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes; linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C 8 -C 30 alkyl group; Homopolymeric oligomers and copolymers of vinyl esters having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups - homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups, - liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more C2-C100 diols preferably C2-050, esters, and / or mixtures thereof. The pasty compound is preferably a polymer, in particular a hydrocarbon polymer. Among the liposoluble polyethers, copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with long-chain C 6 -C 30 alkylene oxides are preferred, more preferably such as the weight ratio of ethylene oxide. and / or propylene oxide with alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will in particular be made of copolymers such as long-chain alkylene oxides are arranged in blocks having an average molecular weight of 1,000 to 10,000, for example a polyoxyethylene / polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as dodecanediol ethers (22). mol) and polyethylene glycol (45 0E) marketed under the tradename ELFACOS ST9 by Akzo Nobel.
[0039] Among the esters, the following are particularly preferred: esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular the esters of diglycerol, in particular the condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, preferably such as bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 sold under the trademark Softisan 649 by the Sasol company, homopolymers of vinyl ester having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups, such as polyvinyl laurate (in particular sold under the reference Mexomère PP by the company Chimex), arachidyl propionate sold under the trade name Waxenol 801 by Alzo, - phytosterol esters, - triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, such as for example fatty acid triglycerides, especially C10-C18, partially or totally hydrogenated such as those sold under the reference Softisan 100 by the company Sasol, the pentaerythritol esters, the non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C 4 -C 50 dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a diol or a polyol in C2-050, the aliphatic ester esters resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylic acid. Preferably, the aliphatic carboxylic acid comprises from 4 to 30 and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. It is preferably selected from hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, 2-ethyl hexanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, acid tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, hexydecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, isostearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, acid isoarachidic acid, octyldodecanoic acid, henicosanoic acid, docosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof. The aliphatic carboxylic acid is preferably branched. The aliphatic hydroxy carboxylic acid ester is advantageously derived from a hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid having from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 34 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 28 carbon atoms, and from 1 to to 20 hydroxyl groups, preferably 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups and more preferably 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups. The aliphatic hydroxy carboxylic acid ester is chosen from: a) partial or total esters of saturated linear monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids; b) partial or total esters of unsaturated monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids; c) partial or total esters of saturated monohydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids; d) partial or total esters of saturated polyhydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids; e) partial or total esters of C2 to C16 aliphatic polyols reacted with a mono- or polyhydroxylated aliphatic mono- or polycarboxylic acid, and mixtures thereof. the diol dimer and diacid dimer esters, if appropriate, esterified on their (their) alcohol (s) or free acid (s) function (s) with acidic radicals or alcohols, especially dimer dilinoleate esters, such esters may in particular be chosen from the following INCI nomenclature esters: bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S), and their mixtures, - mango butter, such as that marketed under the reference Lipex 203 by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN, - hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, oil mixtures hydrogenated vegetable oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated vegetable oil of soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed, for example the mixture marketed under the Akogel® reference by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oi) 1), shea butter, in particular the one whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as that marketed under the Sheasoft® reference by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN, and mixtures thereof. Among the pasty compounds, preference will be given to bisbehenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimeric dilinoleyl, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate, for example RISOCAST-DA-L sold by KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO, hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, for example SALACOS HCIS (VL) sold by NISSHIN OIL, polyvinyl laurate, mango butter, shea butter, hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene or their mixture.
[0040] The pasty fatty substance (s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, especially from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. A composition used according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the abovementioned compounds, at least one structuring agent chosen from semi-crystalline polymers, and their mixtures. Semi-crystalline polymer The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one semi-crystalline polymer. In particular a semicrystalline polymer with an organic structure whose melting temperature is greater than or equal to 30 ° C. Preferably, the total amount of semi-crystalline polymer (s) represents from 2 to 20% of the total weight of the composition, for example from 3 to 15% by weight, and better still from 4 to 10%.
[0041] For the purposes of the invention, the term "polymers" means compounds comprising at least 2 repeating units, preferably at least 3 repeating units and more especially at least 10 repeating units. For the purposes of the invention, the term "semi-crystalline polymer" is intended to mean polymers comprising a crystallizable part and an amorphous part and having a first-order reversible phase change temperature, in particular melting (solid-liquid transition). . The crystallizable portion is either a side chain (or pendant chain) or a sequence in the backbone.
[0042] When the crystallizable portion of the semi-crystalline polymer is a sequence of the polymer backbone, this crystallizable block is of a different chemical nature from that of the amorphous sequences; in this case, the semicrystalline polymer is a block copolymer, for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type. When the crystallizable portion is a chain pendant to the backbone, the semi-crystalline polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer. The term "organic compound" or "organic structure" means compounds containing carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms and optionally heteroatoms such as S, O, N, P alone or in combination.
[0043] The melting temperature of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably less than 150 ° C. The melting temperature of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably greater than or equal to 30 ° C and less than 100 ° C. More preferably, the melting temperature of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably greater than or equal to 30 ° C and less than 70 ° C. The semi-crystalline polymer (s) according to the invention used are solids at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), whose melting temperature is greater than or equal to 30 ° C. The melting point values correspond to the melting point measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DS C), such as the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company METTLER, with a temperature increase of 5%. or 10 ° C per minute. (The melting point considered is the point corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the thermogram). The semi-crystalline polymer (s) according to the invention preferably have a melting point higher than the temperature of the keratinous support intended to receive said composition, in particular the skin or the lips. According to the invention, the semi-crystalline polymers are advantageously soluble in the fatty phase, especially at least 1% by weight, at a temperature above their melting point. Apart from crystallizable chains or blocks, the sequences of the polymers are amorphous. By "chain or crystallizable block" is meant, in the sense of the invention, a chain or sequence which, if it were alone, would pass from the amorphous state to the crystalline state, reversibly, depending on whether it is above or below below the melting temperature. A chain within the meaning of the invention is a group of atoms, during or lateral to the backbone of the polymer. A sequence is a group of atoms belonging to the backbone, a group constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer. According to a preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer is chosen from: homopolymers and copolymers comprising units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers carrying hydrophobic side chain (s) cry stalli sand (s) - the polymers bearing in the backbone at least one crystallizable block, - polyester polycondensates, aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic / aromatic, - copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared by metallocene catalysis. The semi-crystalline polymers that can be used in the invention can be chosen in particular from: - block copolymers of polyolefins with controlled crystallization, the monomers of which are described in EP-A-0 951 897, 20 - polycondensates, and in particular of polyester type aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic / aromatic copolymers, ethylene-propylene copolymers prepared by metallocene catalysis, homo- or co-polymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain and homo- or copolymers bearing in the at least one crystallizable block, such as those described in document US Pat. No. 5,156,911, homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain, in particular with fluorinated group (s), as described in US Pat. WO-A-01/19333, and mixtures thereof. By way of example of semicrystalline polymers, mention may be made, for example, of those described in patent application WO 2010/010301. According to a preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer is chosen from homopolymers and copolymers comprising units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers bearing crystallizable lateral chain (s) hydrophobic (s) crystallizable preferably, it is chosen from among the POLY C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE, preferably such as STARYARY POLY ACRYLATE, in particular sold under the reference INTELIMER IPA 13-1 by the company AIR PRODUCTS AND CHEMICALS, and also the POLY ACRYLATE OF BEHENYL , in particular sold under the reference INTELIMER IPA 13-6 by the company AIR PRODUCTS AND CHEMICALS. AQUEOUS PHASE As stated above, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 20% water. The water may be present in a total content of from 20 to 95% by weight. Preferably, the water is present in a content ranging from 30 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. More preferably, the water is present in a content ranging from 40 to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 30%, preferably at least 40% by weight of water, preferably at least 50% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to water, at least one water-soluble solvent. The aqueous phase may constitute the continuous phase of the composition. By aqueous continuous phase composition is meant that the composition has a conductivity, measured at 25 ° C, greater than or equal to 23 μS / cm (microSiemens / cm), the conductivity being measured for example using a MPC227 conductivity meter from Mettler Toledo and an Inlab730 conductivity cell. The measuring cell is immersed in the composition, so as to eliminate air bubbles that may form between the 2 electrodes of the cell. The reading of the conductivity is made as soon as the value of the conductivity meter is stabilized. An average is performed on at least 3 successive measurements. By "water-soluble solvent" is meant in the present invention a liquid compound at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure). The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention can moreover be volatile. Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, there may be mentioned lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. carbon such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes. The aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 20% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 30% to 90% by weight. In a particularly preferred manner, the aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) is present in the composition in a content ranging from 40% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0044] The aqueous phase according to the invention may also comprise at least one hydrophilic film-forming polymer and / or at least one hydrophilic thickener and / or at least one surfactant. However, the previously indicated aqueous phase content does not include the contents of each of the compounds evoked. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is an oil-in-water emulsion. SURFACE ACTIVE AGENT: The composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant, preferably non-silicone. Preferably, the composition is such that the surfactant is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0045] The composition according to the invention may of course comprise several surfactants. The composition according to the invention comprises an emulsifying system comprising at least one surfactant, especially in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or even 0.5% to 15% by weight. weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight. Advantageously, it is present in a content such that the weight ratio of the total content of non-volatile oils / surfactant content (s) is between 1 and 40, preferably between 3 and 35.
[0046] Preferably, they are present in a weight ratio of total content of non-volatile oils / surfactant content (s) of between 4 and 25. An emulsifying surfactant preferably chosen for obtaining an oil emulsion is preferably used. -in-water.
[0047] In particular, it is possible to use an emulsifying surfactant having at 25 ° C. an HLB balance (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) in the Griffin sense, greater than or equal to 8. It is also possible to use an emulsifying surfactant having a balance at 25 ° C. HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) in the sense of GRIFFIN, less than 8.
[0048] The HLB value according to GRIFFIN is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256. These surfactants may be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof. Reference can be made to the document "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER", Vol. 22, p. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and emulsifying functions of surfactants, in particular p. 347-377 of this reference, for anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants. According to a first embodiment, the composition comprises at least one hydrocarbon surfactant. Examples of hydrocarbon surfactants suitable for the invention are described below.
[0049] Nonionic surfactants Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonionic surfactant. The nonionic surfactants may be chosen in particular from poly (ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl esters, oxyalkylenated alcohols, poly (ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl ethers, alkyl and polyalkyl sorbitan esters, whether or not polyoxyethylenated, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl- and polyalkylether ethers, alkyl- and polyalkylglycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl- and polyalkyl-glucosides or polyglucosides, alkyl- and polyalkyls sucrose esters, alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, polyoxyethylenated or otherwise, alkyl and polyalkyl ether of glycerol, polyoxyethylenated or not, gemini surfactants, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof . 1) Poly (ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl esters are preferably those having a number of ethylene oxide units (OE) of from 2 to 200. For example, stearate may be mentioned. 40E, stearate 50E, stearate 100E, laurate 20E, laurate 40E, distearate 150E. (2) Poly (ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl ethers are preferably those having a number of ethylene oxide units (OE) of from 2 to 200.
[0050] For example, mention may be made of cetyl ether 23 OE, oleyl ether 50%, phytosterol 30 OE, steareth 40, steareth 100, beheneth 100. 3) As oxyalkylenated alcohols, in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene, use is made of preferably those which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, in particular having from 20 to 100 oxyethylene units, in particular fatty alcohols, in particular C8-C24, and preferably C12-C18 alcohols; these may be ethoxylated or not, for example, such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol containing 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "Steareth-20"), such as BRU 78 sold by the company UNIQEMA, ethoxylated ethoxylated alcohol containing 30 oxyethylene units ( CTFA name "Ceteareth-30") and the mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols comprising 7 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "C1215 Pareth-7"), such as that sold under the name NEODOL 25-7® by Shell Chemicals; or in particular oxyalkylenated alcohols (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) having from 1 to 15 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, in particular C 8 -C 24, and preferably C 12 -C 18, ethoxylated fatty alcohols such as stearyl alcohol. ethoxylated with 2 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "Steareth-2") such as the BRU 72 marketed by the company UNIQEMA; 4) As polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters, those having a number of ethylene oxide units (OE) ranging from 0 to 100 are preferably used. For example, sorbitan laurate may be mentioned. 4 or 20 OE, in particular polysorbate 20 (or polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate) such as Tween 20 sold by Uniqema, sorbitan palmitate 20E, sorbitan stearate 20E, sorbitan oleate 20 OE or the Cremophor (RH 40, RH 60 ...) from BASF. Mention may also be made of the mixture of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate (sold under the name Arlacel 2121U-FL from Croda); (5) Polyoxyethylene or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers are preferably used having a number of ethylene oxide units (OE) of 0 to 100. 6) As alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides, use is preferably those containing an alkyl group having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 6 to 18, or even from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a glucoside group preferably comprising from 1 to 5 , especially 1, 2 to 3 units of glucoside. The alkylpolyglucosides may be chosen for example from decylglucoside (Alkyl-C9 / Cii-polyglucoside (1.4)) such as the product sold under the name Mydol 10® by Kao Chemicals or the product marketed under the name Plantacare 2000 UP® by the company Henkel company and the product marketed under the name ORAMIX NS 10® by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl / capryl glucoside, such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare KE 3711® by the company Cognis or ORAMIX CG 110® by the company SEPPIC; laurylglucoside, such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 1200 UP® by Henkel or Plantaren 1200 N® by Henkel; cocoglucoside, such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 818 UP® by Henkel; caprylylglucoside, such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 810 UP® by Cognis; the mixture of arachidyl glucosyl and behenyl alcohol and arachidic alcohol, whose INCI name is ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL (and) BEHENYL ALCOHOL (and) ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE, sold under the name Montanov 202 by the company Seppic; and their mixtures. More generally, alkylpolyglycoside surfactants are defined more specifically later; 7) As sucrose alkyl and polyalkyl esters, in particular the C 12 -C 26 alkyl esters, mention may be made, for example, of sucrose stearate, in particular sold under the name Tegosoft PSE 141 G by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, the stearate mixture sorbitan and sucrose cocoate (marketed under the name Arlatone Arlacel 2121U-FL from Croda), Crodesta F150, sucrose monolaurate marketed under the name Crodesta SL 40, products marketed by Ryoto Sugar Ester, for example, the sucrose palmite marketed as Ryoto Sugar Ester P1670, Ryoto Sugar Ester LWA 1695, Ryoto Sugar Ester 01570; 8) As polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters, those having a number of ethylene oxide units (OE) ranging from 0 to 100 and a number of glycerol units ranging from 1 to 100 are preferably used. 30. Examples include PEG-150 distearate sold under the reference KESSCO PEG 6000 DS by ITALMATCH CHEMICALS ARESE), hexaglyceryl monolaurate and PEG-30 glyceryl stearate. 9) As polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ether ethers, those having a number of ethylene oxide units (OE) ranging from 0 to 100 and a number of glycerol units ranging from 1 to 100 are preferably used. 30. By way of example, there may be mentioned Nikkol Batyl alcohol 100, Nikkol chemyl alcohol 100; 10) cetyl alcohol, and stearyl alcohol; 11) Geminated surfactants of formula (I): wherein R 1 and R 3 denote, independently of one another, an alkyl radical having from 1 to 25 carbon atoms; R2 denotes a spacer consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chain having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms; X and Y denote, independently of one another, a group - (C2H40) a (C3H60) bZ where - Z denotes a hydrogen atom or a radical -CH2-COOM, -SO3M, -P (0 ) (OM) 2, -C 2 H 4 -SO 3 M, -C 3 H 6 -SO 3 M or -CH 2 (CHOH) 4 CH 2 OH, where M, M 'represent H or an alkali or alkaline earth or ammonium or alkanolammonium ion, a is from 0 to 15 b is from 0 to 10, and the sum of a + b is from 1 to 25; and n is from 1 to 10, for example the geminate surfactant mixed with other surfactants in the form of the products sold by SASOL under the names CERALUTION, and in particular the following products - Ceralution® H: Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate, - Ceralution® F: Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate, - Ceralution® C: Aqua, Capric / Caprylic Triglyceride, Glycerin, Ceteareth-25, Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG Sulfate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Arabic Gum, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben (INCI Names); 12) and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the nonionic surfactant is chosen from alkyl and polyalkylglucosides or polyglucosides, preferably those containing an alkyl group containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 6 to 18, or even from 8 to 16 carbon atoms. carbon atoms, and containing a glucoside group preferably comprising from 1 to 5, especially 1, 2 to 3 glucoside units. The alkylpolyglucosides may be chosen for example from decylglucoside (AlkylC9 / Cii-polyglucoside (1.4)); caprylyl / capryl glucoside; laurylglucoside; cocoglucoside; caprylylglucoside; the mixture of arachidyl glucosyl and behenic alcohol and arachidic alcohol; and their mixtures.
[0051] Particularly preferably, the nonionic surfactant is a mixture of arachidyl glucosyl, behenic alcohol and arachidic alcohol. Preferably, the nonionic surfactant is the compound whose INCI name is ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL (and) BEHENYL ALCOHOL (and) ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE, sold especially under the name Montanov 202 by the company Seppic. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the nonionic surfactant alkyl- or polyalkylglucosides or polyglucosides is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or even 0 From 5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight. Anionic Surfactants The anionic surfactants may be chosen from alkyl ether sulfates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, phosphates and alkylphosphates, polypeptides, metal salts, and the like. C 10 -C 30 fatty acids, especially C 16 -C 25, in particular metal stearates and behenates and mixtures thereof. 1) As alkyl ether sulfates, there may be mentioned, for example, sodium lauryl ether sulphate (C12-14 70-30) (2.2 OE) marketed under the names Sipon AOS225 or Texon N702 by the company Henkel, lauryl ether sulphate ammonium chloride (C12-14 70-30) (30E) sold under the name Sipon LEA 370 by the company Henkel, the alkyl (C12-C14) ether (90 E) ammonium sulphate sold under the name RHODAPEX AB / 20 by Rhodia Chimie, and the mixture of lauryl and oleyl ether sodium sulfate and magnesium sold under the name EMPICOL BSD 52 by Albright & Wilson. 2) As carboxylates, there may be mentioned for example the (for example alkaline) salts of N-acylamino acids, glycolcarboxylates, amido ether carboxylates (AEC) and polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acid salts. The glycol carboxylate type surfactant may be chosen from alkylglycol carboxylic or 2- (2-hydroxyalkyloxyacetate), their salts and mixtures thereof. These alkyl glycol carboxylic acids comprise a linear or branched alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic and / or aromatic, having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. These carboxylic acids can be neutralized with mineral bases such as potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide. As surfactants of the carboxylic glycol type, there may be mentioned, for example, sodium lauryl glycol carboxylate or 2- (2-hydroxyalkyloxy sodium acetate), such as the product sold under the name Beaulight Shaa® by the company Sanyo, Beaulight LCA-25N® or the corresponding acid form Beaulight Shaa (Acid form) ®. As amido ether carboxylate (AEC), mention may be made, for example, of sodium lauryl amido ether carboxylate (30E), sold under the name AKYPO FOAM 30® by the company Kao Chemicals. As the polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acid salt, mention may be made, for example, of sodium lauryl ether carboxylate (C12-14-16 65/25/10) oxyethylenated (60E) sold under the name AKYPO SOFT 45 NV® by the company Kao Chemicals the polyoxyethylenated and carboxymethylated olive oil fatty acids sold under the name OLIVEM 400® by the company BIOLOGIA E TECNOLOGIA, the oxyethylenated tri-decyl ether carboxylate (60E) sold under the name NIKKOL ECTD-6NEX; ® by the company Nikkol. 3) As amino acid derivatives, there may be mentioned in particular the alkaline salts of amino acids, such as: sarcosinates, such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name SARKOSYL NL 97® by the company Ciba or sold under the name ORAMIX L 30® by Seppic, the sodium myristoyl sarcosinate sold under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE MN® by Nikkol, the sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate sold under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE PN® by the company Nikkol. alaninates, such as the sodium N-lauroyl-N-methylamidopropionate sold under the name Sodium Nikkol Alaninate LN 30® by the company Nikkol, or sold under the name Alanone Ale® by the company Kawaken, N-lauroyl N-methyl alanine triethanolamine sold under the name ALANONE ALTA® by the company Kawaken. glutamates, such as the triethanolamine mono-cocoyl glutamate sold under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE CT-12® by the company Ajinomoto, the triethanolamine lauroylglutamate sold under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE LT-12® by the company Ajinomoto; and mixtures thereof, such as for example the mixture of PALMITOYL PROLINE (and) SODIUM PALMITOYL SARCOSINATE (and) MAGNESIUM 5 PALMITOYL GLUTAMATE, in particular marketed under the reference SEPIFEEL ONE by the company SEPPIC. The salts and / or derivatives of glutamic acid are described more precisely later. aspartates, such as the triethanolamine triethanolamine N-lauroyl aspartate / N-myristoyl aspartate triethanolamine mixture sold under the name ASPARACK® by the company Mitsubishi. glycine derivatives (glycinates), such as the sodium N-cocoyl glycinate sold under the names Amilite GCS-12® and Amilite GCK 12 by the company Ajinomoto. Citrates, such as the citric monoester of oxyethylenated coconut alcohols (9 moles), sold under the name Witconol EC 1129 by the company Goldschmidt. galacturonates, such as the sodium dodecyl D-galactoside uronate marketed by Soliance. 4) As sulphonates, mention may be made, for example, of alpha-olefin sulphonates, such as sodium alpha-olefin sulphonate (C14-16) sold under the name BIO-TERGE AS-40® by the company Stepan, marketed under the names WITCONATE AOS PROTEGE® and SULFRAMINE AOS PH 12® by the company Witco or sold under the name BIO-TERGE AS-40 CG® by Stepan, the secondary sodium olefin sulfonate sold under the name HOSTAPUR SAS 30® by the company Clariant company; 5) As isethionates, mention may be made of acylisethionates such as sodium cocoylisethionate, such as the product sold under the name JORDAPON CI P® by the company Jordan. 6) As taurates, mention may be made of the sodium salt of palm kernel oil methyltaurate marketed under the name HOSTAPON CT PATE® by the company Clariant; N-acyl N-methyltaurates, such as sodium N-cocoyl N-methyltaurate sold under the name HOSTAPON LT-SFS by the company Clariant or sold under the name NIKKOL CMT-30-T® by the company Nikkol, palmitoyl methyltaurate. sodium marketed under the name NIKKOL PMT® by Nikkol. 7) As sulfosuccinates, mention may be made, for example, of oxyethylenated (30E) lauryl alcohol (C12 / C14 70/30) monosulphysuccinate sold under the names SETACIN 103 SPECIAL®, REWOPOL SB-FA 30 K 4® by the Witco company, the di-sodium salt of a hemi-sulfosuccinate of C12-C14 alcohols, sold under the name SETACIN F SPECIAL PASTE® by the company Zschimmer Schwarz, the di-sodium oxyethylenated oleamidosulfosuccinate (20E) sold under the name STANDAPOL SH 135® by Henkel, the oxyethylenated lauric monosulphosuccinate (50E) marketed under the name LEBON A5000® by the company Sanyo, the di-sodium salt of oxyethylenated lauryl citrate monosulfinate (10 OE) ) marketed under the name REWOPOL SB CS 50® by the company Witco, ricinoleic mono-ethanolamide mono-sulfosuccinate sold under the name REWODERM S 1333® by the company Witco. It is also possible to use polydimethylsiloxane sulphosuccinates such as the disodium PEG-12 dimethicone sulphosuccinate marketed under the name MACKANATE-DC30 by Mac Intyre. 8) As alkyl sulphoacetate, mention may be made, for example, of the mixture of sodium lauryl sulphoacetate and di-sodium lauryl ether sulphosuccinate, sold under the name Stepan-Lyl LSB by the company Stepan. 9) Phosphates and alkylphosphates include, for example, monoalkyl phosphates and dialkyl phosphates, such as lauryl mono-phosphate sold under the name MAP 20® by the company Kao Chemicals, the potassium salt of dodecyl acid, phosphoric acid, mixture of mono- and di-ester (majority diester) marketed under the name CRAFOL AP-31® by Cognis, the mixture of monoester and octylphosphoric acid di-ester, sold under the name CRAFOL AP-20 ® by the company Cognis, the mixture of monoester and diester of ethoxylated 2-butyloctanol phophoric acid (7 moles of EO), sold under the name ISOFOL 12 7 EO-PHOSPHATE ESTER® by the company Condea, the salt of potassium or triethanolamine monoalkyl (C12-C13) phosphate sold under the references ARLATONE MAP 230K-40 and ARLATONE MAP 230T-60 by the company Uniqema, potassium lauryl phosphate marketed under the denomination DERMALCARE MAP XC-99 / 09® by the company Rhodia Chimie, and the potassium cetyl phosphate marketed under the name ARLATONE MAP 160K by the company Uniqema. 10) The polypeptides are obtained for example by condensation of a fatty chain on the amino acids of cereals and in particular wheat and oats. As polypeptides, mention may be made, for example, of the potassium salt of lauroyl hydrolysed wheat protein, sold under the name AMINOFOAM W OR by the company Croda, the triethanolamine salt of cocoyl soy protein hydrolysed, sold under the name MAY-TEIN SY by the company Maybrook, the sodium salt of lauroyl amino acids of oats, sold under the name PROTEOL OAT by the company Seppic, the collagen hydrolyzate grafted on the coconut fatty acid, sold under the name GELIDERM 3000 by the company Deutsche Gelatine, soy proteins acylated with hydrogenated coconut acids, sold under the name PROTEOL VS 22 by the company Seppic. 11) As metal salts of C 10 -C 30, preferably C 16 -C 25 fatty acids, mention may in particular be made of metal behenates, such as sodium behenate and metal stearates, such as sodium stearate, in particular marketed under the reference FACI 35/65 vegetable sodium stearate, and potassium stearate, as well as polyhydroxy stearates; 12) and mixtures thereof.
[0052] Cationic surfactants Cationic surfactants may be chosen from: alkylimidazolidiniums such as isostearylethylimidonium ethosulphate, ammonium salts such as (C 12 -C 30 alkyl) -tri (alkyl) halides, C 1-4) ammonium such as N, N, N-trimethyl-1-docosanaminium chloride (or Behentrimonium chloride).
[0053] The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more amphoteric surfactants such as N-acyl amino acids such as N-alkyl-aminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and amine oxides such as stearamine oxide, or silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols phosphates such as that sold under the name PECOSIL PS 100® by the company Phoenix Chemical. According to a second embodiment, the composition comprises at least one silicone surfactant. By way of example, mention may be made of: a) as nonionic surfactants with a HLB greater than or equal to 8 at 25 ° C., used alone or as a mixture; mention may be made in particular of: dimethicone copolyol, such as that sold under the name Q2-5220® by Dow Corning; dimethicone copolyol benzoate, such as that sold under the name FINSOLV SLB 101C) and 201® by the company FINTEX; b) as nonionic surfactants with an HLB of less than 8 at 25 ° C, used alone or as a mixture; mention may be made in particular of: the cyclomethicone / dimethicone copolyol mixture sold under the name Q2-3225C® by the company Dow Corning; Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonionic or anionic surfactant. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant chosen from: Amino acid derivatives and in particular glutamates, such as the mixture of PALMITOYL PROLINE (and) SODIUM PALMITOYL SARCOSINATE (and) MAGNESIUM PALMITOYL GLUTAMATE, in particular sold under the reference SEPIFEEL ONE by the company SEPPIC, and / or the alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose, in particular the C12-C26 alkyl esters, mention may be made, for example, of sucrose stearate, in particular sold under the name Tegosoft PSE 141 G by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, and / or the mixture of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate (marketed under the name Arlacel 2121U-FL from Croda); alkyl and polyalkylglucosides or polyglucosides, preferably those containing an alkyl group containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 6 to 18 or even from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a glucoside group comprising preferably from 1 to 5, in particular from 1 to 2 units of glucoside, preferably the alkylpolyglucosides chosen from decylglucoside (Alkyl-C9 / Cii-polyglucoside (1.4)); caprylyl / capryl glucoside; laurylglucoside; cocoglucoside; caprylylglucoside; and the mixture of arachidyl glucosyl and behenyl alcohol and arachidic alcohol, whose INCI name is ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL (and) BEHENYL ALCOHOL (and) ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the surfactant is chosen from: (1) amino acid derivatives and in particular glutamates, preferably such as the mixture of PALMITOYL PROLINE (and) SODIUM PALMITOYL SARCOSINATE (and) MAGNESIUM PALMITOYL GLUTAMATE, and or (2) sucrose alkyl and polyalkyl esters, especially C12-C26 alkyl esters, preferably sucrose stearate, and / or such as sorbitan stearate-sucrose cocoate mixture; and their mixtures.
[0054] HYDROPHILIC GELIFYING POLYMER The composition according to the invention may further comprise a hydrophilic gelling agent, preferably chosen from associative polymers. Preferably, the composition is such that the hydrophilic gelling agent (preferably an associative polymer) is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, if this This is present. The term "gelling polymer of the aqueous phase" in the sense of the present application, a polymer capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention.
[0055] The gelling polymer that can be used according to the invention can in particular be characterized by its ability to form in water, beyond a certain concentration C *, a gel characterized by oscillatory rheology (la = 1 Hz) by a threshold of flow I, at least equal to 10 Pa. This concentration C * can vary widely depending on the nature of the gelling polymer considered. As an illustration, this concentration is between 1 and 2% by weight for a copolymer acrylamide / acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate sodium 40% inverse emulsion in polysorbate 80 / I-C16 as marketed under the name "Simulgel 600 "by the company SEPPIC, and is about 0.5% by weight for an ethoxylated cethesyl methacrylate (25 EO) crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA) of the ARISTOFLEX HMS type. The gelling polymer may be present in the composition in an amount sufficient to adjust the rigidity modulus G * (1 Hz, 25 ° C.) of the composition to a value greater than or equal to 10,000 Pa, in particular ranging from 10,000 Pa to 100,000 Pa. The method of die stiffness module G * (1 Hz, 25 ° C) of the composition is described in more detail below. The gelling polymer is a hydrophilic polymer and is therefore present in the aqueous phase of the composition. More particularly, this gelling polymer may be chosen from: - homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their salts and esters and in particular the products sold under the names "VERSICOL F" or "VERSICOL K" by the company ALLIED COLLOID, "UTRAHOLD 8" by the company CIBA-GEIGY, polyacrylic acids of the SYNTHALEN K type, and the salts, in particular of sodium, of polyacrylic acid (answering the INCI name sodium acrylate copolymer) and more particularly a sodium polyacrylate crosslinked (answering the name INCI sodium acrylate copolymer (and) caprylic / capric triglyceride) sold under the name "LUVIGEL EM" by the company, - copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salt under the denominations "RETEN" by the company HERCULES, sodium polymethacrylate sold under the name "DARVAN No. 7" by the company Vanderbilt, the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name "HYDAGEN F" by HENKEL, - polyacrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymers, preferably carboxyvinyl polymers modified or not, the acrylate / calcium copolymers are most particularly preferred according to the present invention; C 30 -alkylacrylate (INCI name Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) such as the products sold by Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen TR1, Pemulen TR2, Carbopol 1382, Carbopol EDT 2020 and even more preferably Pemulen TR-2; - AMPS (polyacrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid partially neutralized with ammonia and highly crosslinked) marketed by the company CLAMANT, - AMPS copolymers / acrylamide type SEPIGEL or SIMULGEL marketed by the company SEPPIC, - AMPS copolymers / methacrylates of polyoxyethylenated alkyl (cross-linked or otherwise) of the ARISTOFLEX HMS type sold by the company CLAMANT, and mixtures thereof.
[0056] Other examples of hydrophilic gelling polymers that may be mentioned include: - anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers; cellulose polymers, distinct from alkylcellulose, chosen from hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, as well as the quaternized derivatives of cellulose; vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methylvinyl ether and of malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol; polymers of natural origin, which may be modified, such as: galactomannans and their derivatives, such as Konjac gum, Gellane gum, Carob gum, Fennugrec gum, Karaya gum, gum Tragacanth, acacia, acacia gum, guar gum, hydroxypropylguar, hydroxypropylguar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia), hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium guar chloride xanthan derivatives; alginates and carrageenans; glycosaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives; deoxyribonucleic acid; mucopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulphates, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, the gelling polymer is chosen from homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their salts and esters, polyacrylic acids, polyacrylic acid salts or mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, the gelling polymer is a sodium salt of polyacrylic acid, especially a crosslinked sodium polyacrylate.
[0057] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the gelling agent is chosen from associative polymers. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "associative polymer" means any amphiphilic polymer comprising in its structure at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion.The associative polymers in accordance with the present invention may be anionic, cationic or nonionic. or amphoteric associative anionic polymers Among the associative anionic polymers, mention may be made of those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit, and at least one fatty-chain allyl ether unit, more particularly from those whose hydrophilic unit consists of an anionic monomer. unsaturated ethylenic, more particularly by a vinyl carboxylic acid and very particularly by an acrylic acid, a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof, and whose fatty-chain allyl ether unit corresponds to the following monomer of formula (I): CH 2 = C ( Wherein R 'is H or CH3, B is ethyleneoxy, n is is zero or denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100, R denotes a hydrocarbon radical chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl and cycloalkyl radicals, comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24, and more particularly 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Anionic amphiphilic polymers of this type are described and prepared, according to an emulsion polymerization process, in patent EP-0 216 479. Among the associative anionic polymers, mention may also be made of terpolymers of maleic anhydride / α-olefin C30-C38 / alkyl maleate such as the product (maleic anhydride copolymer / C30-C38 cc-olefin / isopropyl maleate) sold under the name PERFORMA V 1608 by the company NEWPHASE TECHNOLOGIES. Among the anionic associative polymers, according to one preferred embodiment, the copolymers comprising, among their monomers, an α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and a α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid ester and a Preferably, these compounds also comprise, as monomer, an α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid ester of C 1 -C 4 alcohol, for example of this type of compound, mention may be made of ACULYN. 22® sold by Rohm and Haas, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer (comprising 20 OE units) or Aculyn 28 (methacrylic acid terpolymer / ethyl acrylate). Behenyl methacrylate oxyethylene (250E) As associative anionic polymers, mention may also be made of anionic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of carboxylic acid type. olefinic unsaturated olefin, and at least one hydrophobic unit exclusively of (C 10 -C 30) alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid. By way of example, mention may be made of the anionic polymers described and prepared according to US Pat. Nos. 3,915,921 and 4,509,949. Cationic Associative Polymers As cationic associative polymers, mention may be made of quaternized cellulose derivatives and grouped polyacrylates. lateral amino. The quaternized cellulose derivatives are, in particular, quaternized celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups containing at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof, quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups containing at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof. The polyacrylates with amino side groups, quaternized or otherwise, have, for example, hydrophobic groups of the steareth type (stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated (20)). The alkyl radicals carried by the quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses above preferably contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups. Examples of C8-C30 fatty chain quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses are QUATRISOFT LM 200, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18-A, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18B (C12alkyl) and QUATRISOFT. LM-X 529-8 (C18 alkyl) marketed by the company AMERCHOL and the products CRODACEL QM, CRODACEL QL (C12 alkyl) and CRODACEL QS (C18 alkyl) marketed by the company CRODA. Examples of aminated side chain polyacrylates include polymers 8781-121B or 9492-103 from the company National Starch. Nonionic Associative Polymers The nonionic associative polymers may be chosen from: celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, for example hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl groups; , especially C8-C22, arylalkyl, alkylaryl, such as NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS (C16 alkyls) sold by AQUALON, - celluloses modified with polyalkylene glycol ether alkyl phenol groups, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonyl phenol ether) sold by the company Amerchol, guars such as hydroxypropyl guar, modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as an alkyl chain, copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and hydrophobic fatty-chain monomers 10 - copolymers of methacrylates or of C 1 -C 6 alkyl acrylates and amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain such as, for example, polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer, and associative polyurethanes The associative polyurethanes are nonionic block copolymers comprising in the chain both hydrophilic sequences most often polyoxyethylenated in nature (the polyurethanes may then be called polyurethane polyethers) and hydrophobic sequences which may be aliphatic linkages alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic chains. In particular, these polymers comprise at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains having from C6 to C30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, the hydrocarbon chains may be pendant chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic sequence. In particular, it is possible that one or more pendant chains are provided. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block. The associative polyurethanes can be sequenced in the form of triblock or multiblock. The hydrophobic sequences can therefore be at each end of the chain (for example: hydrophilic central block triblock copolymer) or distributed at both the ends and in the chain (multiblock copolymer for example). These polymers may also be graft or star. Preferably, the associative polyurethanes are triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising from 50 to 1,000 oxyethylenated groups. In general, the associative polyurethanes comprise a urethane bond between the hydrophilic sequences, hence the origin of the name. According to a preferred embodiment, a nonionic associative polymer of the polyurethane type is used as a gelling agent. By way of example, nonionic polyurethane polyethers that can be used in the invention include the C16-0E120-C16 polymer from the company Servo Delden (under the name SER AD FX1100, urethane functional molecule and average molecular weight by weight 1300), EO being an oxyethylenated unit.
[0058] As a polyurethane associative polymer, it is also possible to use also the urea-functional Rheolate 205 sold by Rheox or the Rheolate 208 or 204 or the Rheolate FX 1100 by Elementis. These associative polyurethanes are sold in pure form. The product DW 1206B from RHOM & HAAS with a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at 20% solids content in water, can also be used.
[0059] It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, especially in water or in an aqueous-alcoholic medium. By way of example, such polymers include SER AD FX1010, SER AD FX1035 and SER AD 1070 from SERVO DELDEN, Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244 sold by RHEOX. It is also possible to use Aculyn 46, DW 1206F and DW 1206J, as well as Acrysol RM 184 or Acrysol 44 from Rohm & Haas or Borchigel LW 44 from Borchers, and mixtures thereof. . According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from: - the hydroxypropylguar of guar that can be modified, in particular the hydroxypropylguar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia), hydroxypropyl guar chloride; tri-methyl ammonium; vinyl polymers, such as polyvinyl alcohol; anionic associative polymers derived from (meth) acrylic acid, such as the uncrosslinked copolymer obtained from methacrylic acid and steareth-20 methacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 22 by Rohm & Haas, associative polymers nonionic polyurethane-type polyethers, such as the STEARETH-100 / PEG-136 / HDI COPOLYMER sold under the name Rheolate FX 1100 by Elementis).
[0060] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from: - the hydroxypropylguar of guar that can be modified, in particular the hydroxypropylguar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia), hydroxypropyl guar chloride; tri-methyl ammonium; anionic associative polymers derived from (meth) acrylic acid, such as the uncrosslinked copolymer obtained from methacrylic acid and steareth-20 methacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 22 by Rohm & Haas, nonionic associative polymers of the polyurethane polyether type, such as the STEARETH-100 / PEG-136 / HDI COPOLYMER sold under the name Rheolate FX 1100 by Elementis).
[0061] Amphoteric Associative Polymers Among the associative amphoteric polymers of the invention, mention may be made of amphoteric, crosslinked or non-crosslinked, branched or non-branched polymers, obtainable by the copolymerization of 1) at least one monomer of formula (IVa ) or (IVb): wherein R4 and R5, which may be identical or different, are chosen from R4, R4, R4, R4, R4, R4, R4, R4 and R5; , represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, R6, R7 and R8, which may be identical or different, represents a linear or branched alkyl radical having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, Z represents an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5, A- is an anion derived from an organic or inorganic acid, such as a methosulphate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide. Wherein R 9 and R 10, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; Z1 represents an OH group or an NHC (CH3) 2CH2SO3H group; 3) of at least one monomer of formula (VI): ## STR5 ## in which R 9 and R 10, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, X denotes an oxygen atom; or nitrogen and R 1 denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms; 4) optionally at least one crosslinking agent or branching agent; at least one of the monomers of formula (IVa), (IVb) or (VI) comprising at least one fatty chain having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and said compounds of the monomers of formula (IVa), (IVb), ( V) and (VI) may be quaternized, for example, with a C1-C4 alkyl halide or a C1-C4 dialkyl sulphate. The monomers of formula (IVa) and (IVb) of the present invention are preferably chosen from the group consisting of: dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate, dimethylaminoethylacrylate, diethylaminoethylmethacrylate, diethylaminoethylacrylate, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylate, dimethylaminopropylacrylate, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide, dimethylaminopropylacrylamide, optionally quaternized for example with a C1-C4 alkyl halide or a C1-C4 dialkyl sulphate. (VI) More particularly, the monomer of formula (IVa) is chosen from acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride. The compounds of formula (V) of the present invention are preferably selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, 2-methylcrotonic acid, 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid and 2-methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid. More particularly, the monomer of formula (V) is acrylic acid. The monomers of formula (VI) of the present invention are preferably chosen from the group consisting of C12-C22 alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, and more particularly C16-C18 alkyl acrylates or methacrylates. The crosslinking or branching agent is preferably chosen from N, N'-methylenebisacrylamide, triallylmethylammonium chloride, allyl methacrylate, n-methylolacrylamide, polyethylene glycol dimethacrylate and dimethacrylate. ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol dimethacrylate, 1,6-hexanediol dimethacrylate and allyl sucrose. The polymers according to the invention may also contain other monomers such as nonionic monomers and in particular such as C1-C4 alkyl acrylates or methacrylates. The ratio of the number of cationic charges / anionic charges in these amphoteric polymers is preferably equal to about 1. The weight average molecular weights of the associative amphoteric polymers have a weight average molecular weight of greater than 500, preferably of between 10,000 and 10,000,000 and even more preferably between 100,000 and 800,000. Preferably, the associative amphoteric polymers of the invention contain from 1 to 99 mole%, more preferably from 20 to 95 mole% and even more preferably from 25 to 75 mole% of compound (s). ) of formula (IVa) or (IVb). They also preferably contain from 1 to 80 mole%, more preferably from 5 to 80 mole% and even more preferably from 25 to 75 mole% of compound (s) of formula (V). The content of compound (s) of formula (VI) is preferably between 0.1 and 70 mol%, more preferably between 1 and 50 mol% and even more preferably between 1 and 10 mol%. The crosslinking or branching agent when present is preferably between 0.0001 and 1 mol% and more preferably between 0.0001 and 0.1 mol%.
[0062] Preferably, the molar ratio between the compound (s) of formulas (IVa) or (IVb) and the compound (s) of formula (V) ranges from 20:80 to 95: 5 and more preferably from 25:75 to 75:25. The amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention are for example described in the patent application WO9844012.
[0063] The amphoteric polymers that are particularly preferred according to the invention are chosen from acrylic acid / acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / stearyl methacrylate copolymers. The hydrophilic gelling polymer (s), and in particular the associative polymers, may be present in the composition according to the invention in a total active material content ranging from 0.1 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight. It is understood that this quantity is moreover likely to vary according to whether said polymer is associated or not with an ionic and / or nonionic surfactant and / or a film-forming agent (distinct from alkylcellulose and in particular ethylcellulose), which, too, are likely to affect the consistency of the composition. The Active Ingredients The composition may further comprise at least one active agent chosen from hydrating agents, cicatrizing agents and / or anti-aging agents, skin and / or lips, and in particular lipids. According to this embodiment, the invention also relates to a method of care of the skin and / or the lips, and in particular the lips comprising the application of a composition according to the invention to the skin and or the lips.
[0064] Moisturizing Agents: According to a first embodiment, the composition comprises at least one moisturizing agent (also called humectant).
[0065] As humectants or moisturizers, there may be mentioned in particular sorbitol, polyhydric alcohols, preferably C2-C8, and more preferably C3-C6, such as preferably glycerine, propylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerine, and their mixture, glycerol and its derivatives, urea and its derivatives including Hydrovance (2-hydroxyethyl urea) marketed by National Starch, lactic acid, l hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs, sodium pidolate, xylitol, serine, sodium lactate, ectoin and its derivatives, chitosan and its derivatives, collagen, plankton, imperata extract cylindra marketed under the name Moist 24 by Sederma 'homopolymers of acrylic acid such as Lipidure-HM® NOF corporation, beta-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a mixture of passionflower, apricot, corn and rice bran oils marketed by Nestlé under the name NutraLipids®; a C-glycoside derivative such as those described in patent application WO 02/051828 and in particular CPD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a water / propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight) such as the product manufactured by CHIMEX under the trade name "MEXORYL SBB"; a muscat rose oil marketed by Nestlé; an extract of microalga Prophyridium cruentum enriched in zinc marketed by Vincience under the name Algualane Zinc®; spheres of collagen and chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Ateocollagen) marketed by Engelhard Lyon under the name marine filling spheres; spheres of hyaluronic acid such as those marketed by Engelhard Lyon; and arginine.
[0066] Preferably, use will be made of a moisturizing agent chosen from glycerin, urea and its derivatives, in particular Hydrovance® marketed by National Starch, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs, homopolymers of acrylic acid such as Lipidure- HM® from NOF Corporation, beta-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan from Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a mixture of passionflower, apricot, corn and rice bran oils marketed by Nestlé under the name NutraLipids®; a C-glycoside derivative such as those described in patent application WO 02/051828 and in particular CPD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a water / propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight) such as the product manufactured by CHIMEX under the trade name "MEXORYL SBB"; a muscat rose oil marketed by Nestlé; an extract of microalga Prophyridium cruentum enriched in zinc marketed by Vincience under the name Algualane Zinc®; spheres of collagen and chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Ateocollagen) marketed by Engelhard Lyon under the name marine filling spheres; spheres of hyaluronic acid such as those marketed by Engelhard Lyon; and arginine.
[0067] Healing Agents The active ingredient may also be selected from the healing agents. Examples of healing agents that may be mentioned include: allantoin, urea, certain amino acids such as hydroxyproline, arginine, serine, and also extracts of white lily (such as Phytelene Lys 37EG 16295 from Indena), a yeasts extract such as the healing wound LS LO / 7225B from Laboratoires Sériobiologiques (Cognis), tamanu oil, Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract such as Biodynes® TRF® from Arch Chemical, oat extracts, chitosan and derivatives such as chitosan glutamate, carrot extracts, artemia extract such as Vincience's GP4G®, sodium acexamate, lavandin extracts, propolis extracts, ximeninic acid and its salts, rosa rugosa oil, marigold extracts such as Alban Muller's Souci Ami® Liposolible, horsetail extracts, lemon bark extracts such as Herbasol® Lemon from Cosmetochem, extracts of helichryse , extracts of millefeuilles, folic acid, betaglucan and riveted, the shea butter and its purified fractions, modified exopolysaccharides and the Polyaminosaccharides alkylsulfonnés.
[0068] ANTI-AGING AGENTS The active agent may also be chosen from anti-aging agents, that is to say having, in particular, a restructuring effect on the cutaneous barrier, the anti-glycation agents, the active agents stimulating the energetic metabolism of the cells and their mixtures.
[0069] The agent having a restructuring effect of the cutaneous barrier may be chosen from an extract of Thermus thermophilus such as Sederma's Venuiteane®, an extract of wild yam rhizome (Dioscorea villosa) such as Actigen Y® from Active Organics, plankton extracts such as Secma's omega plankton, yeast extracts such as Coletica's Relipidium®, a chestnut extract such as Silab's Recoverine®, a cedar bud extract such as Gatuline Zen® from Gattefossé, sphingosines such as salicyloyl sphingosine sold under the name "Phytosphingosine® SLC" by the company Degussa, a mixture of xylitol, xylityl polyglycoside and xylitan such as Aquaxyl® Seppic, solanaceous extracts such as Lipidessence® from Coletica and their mixtures. Mention may also be made in particular of ceramides, sphingoid-based compounds, glycosphingolipids, phospholipids, cholesterol and its derivatives, phytosterols, essential fatty acids, diacylglycerol, 4-chromanone and chromone derivatives and mixtures thereof. Preferred agents having a restructuring effect on the cutaneous barrier are Thermus thermophilus extract, wild yam rhizome extract (dioscorea villosa), yeast extract, chestnut extract, cedar bud extract and their mixtures. By "anti-glycation agent" is meant a compound that prevents and / or decreases the glycation of skin proteins, in particular dermal proteins, such as collagen. Examples of anti-glycation agents are the plant extracts of the family Ericaceae, such as an extract of blueberry (Vaccinium angusfifollium), for example that sold under the name "BLUEBERRY HERBASOL EXTRACT PG" by the company COSMETOCHEM, the ergothioneine and its derivatives, hydroxystilbenes and their derivatives, such as resveratrol and 3,3 ', 5,5'-tetrahydroxystilbene (these anti-glycation agents are described in applications FR 2 802 425, FR 2 810 548, FR 2,796,278 and FR 2,802,420, respectively), dihydroxystilbenes and their derivatives, arginine and lysine polypeptides, such as the product sold under the name Amadorine® by Solabia, carcinine hydrochloride (marketed by Exsymol). under the name "ALISTIN"), an extract of Hélainthus annuus such as Antiglyskin® from Silab, wine extracts such as the white wine powder extract on a maltodextrin support sold under the name "White wine" dehydrated 2F "by Givaudan, thioctic acid (or alpha lipoic acid), a mixture of bearberry extract and marine glycogen such as Aglycal LS 8777 from Laboratoires Sériobiologiques, a black tea extract such as Kombuchka® from Sederma and their mixtures. The active agent stimulating the energetic metabolism of the cells may for example be chosen from biotin, an extract of Saccharomyces cerevisaie such as Phosphovital® from Sederma, the mixture of sodium salts, of manganese, zinc and magnesium of pyrrolidone acid. carboxylic acid, such as Physiogenyl® from Solabia, a mixture of zinc gluconate, copper and magnesium, such as Sepitonic M3® from Seppic and mixtures thereof. The active ingredients employed in the compositions according to the invention may be hydrophilic or lipophilic. Preferably, the composition comprises at least one hydrophilic active agent, chosen from moisturizing agents, healing agents and anti-aging agents. Indeed, the composition according to the invention comprising water, it is particularly suitable for the introduction of hydrophilic active ingredients into the composition, in particular without problems of stability of the composition and / or the active ingredient. This is particularly interesting, especially in the context of lip care. Indeed, the conventional lipstick compositions known in the prior art, whether solid or liquid, rarely include water and, if they contain, are generally unstable over time (ie that they exhibit phenomena of phase shift or exudation). Preferably, the active agent is chosen from: polyhydric alcohols, preferably C 2 -C 8, and more preferably C 3 -C 6, such as, preferably, glycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol , dipropylene glycol, diglycerin, and their mixture, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs, serine, collagen, a C-glycoside derivative and in particular C- (3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy) propane in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a water / propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight), spheres of collagen and chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Ateocollagen), spheres hyaluronic acid, ceramides such as ceramide V.
[0070] Preferably, the active content in the composition ranges from 0.001% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight, or even more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.05% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. A composition according to the invention may furthermore comprise any additional component usually used in cosmetics, such as dyestuffs, fillers or cosmetic active agents. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition used according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition considered. Dyestuffs A composition in accordance with the present invention may comprise at least one dyestuff that may be chosen from water-soluble or non-fat-soluble, organic or inorganic, water-soluble dyestuffs, optical-effect materials, and mixtures thereof. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "dyestuff" means a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when it is formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium.
[0071] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one dyestuff chosen from pigments and / or nacres and / or water-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one water-soluble dyestuff.
[0072] The water-soluble dyestuffs used according to the invention are more particularly water-soluble dyes. For the purposes of the invention, the term "water-soluble dye" is intended to mean any generally organic compound, natural or synthetic, soluble in an aqueous phase or solvents that are miscible with water and capable of coloring. In particular, it is intended to characterize, by the term water-soluble, the ability of a compound to solubilize in water, measured at 25 ° C., at a concentration of at least 0.1 g / l (obtaining a macroscopically isotropic and transparent solution, colored or not). This solubility is in particular greater than or equal to 1 g / l. As water-soluble dyes that are suitable for the invention, water-soluble synthetic or natural dyes, such as, for example, FDC Red 4 (CI: 14700), DC Red 6 (Lithol Rubine Na, CI: 15850), DC can be mentioned. Red 22 (CI: 45380), DC Red 28 (CI: 45410 Na salt), DC Red 30 (CI: 73360), DC Red 33 (CI: 17200), DC Orange 4 (CI: 15510), FDC Yellow 5 (CI: 19140), FDC Yellow 6 (CI: 15985), DC Yellow 8 (CI: 45350 Na Salt), FDC Green 3 (CI: 42053), DC Green 5 (CI: 61570); ), FDC Blue 1 (CI: 42090).
[0073] By way of non-limiting illustration of sources of water-soluble dye (s) that may be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made especially of those of natural origin, such as extracts of carmine, cochineal, beetroot, grape, carrot, tomato, annatto, paprika, henna, caramel and curcumin.
[0074] Thus, the water-soluble dyestuffs that are suitable for the invention are in particular carminic acid, betanine, anthocyanins, enocyanines, lycopene, beta-carotene, bixin, norbixin, capsanthin, capsorubin, flovoxanthine, lutein, cryptoxanthin, rubixanthine, violaxanthin, riboflavin, roudoxanthin, cantaxanthin, chlorophyll, and mixtures thereof.
[0075] It may also be copper sulphate, iron, water-soluble sulphopolyesters, rhodamine, betaine, methylene blue, disodium tartrazine salt and disodium fuschine salt. Some of these water-soluble dyestuffs are in particular approved for food. As a representative of these dyes, mention may be made more particularly of the dyes of the family of carotenoids, referenced under the food codes E120, E162, E163, E160a-g, E150a, E101, E100, E140 and E141. According to a preferred variant, the water-soluble dyestuff (s) to be transferred to the skin and / or the lips to be made up, are formulated in a physiologically acceptable medium so as to be compatible with impregnation at the level of the substrate.
[0076] The water-soluble dyestuff (s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0 to 8% by weight. , 1 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the water-soluble coloring material (s) are chosen from the di-sodium salt of bright yellow. FCF marketed by the company LCW under the name DC Yellow 6, the di-sodium salt of acidic fuchsin D marketed by LCW under the name DC Red 33, the tri-sodium salt of the Allura Red marketed by LCW under the name FD & C Red 40. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises only water-soluble dyes as dyestuffs. According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment and / or one nacre as coloring matter. According to another embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the water-soluble dyestuffs described above, one or more additional dyestuffs, in particular of the pigment or nacre type, conventionally used in cosmetic compositions.
[0077] The term "pigments" means white or colored, inorganic (mineral) or organic particles, insoluble in the liquid organic phase, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the deposit produced with the composition. The pigments may be chosen from inorganic pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (that is to say pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials). The pigments may be chosen from monochromatic pigments, lacquers, pearlescent agents, optical effect pigments, such as reflecting pigments and goniochromatic pigments.
[0078] The inorganic pigments may be chosen from metal oxide pigments, chromium oxides, iron oxides, titanium dioxide, zinc oxides, cerium oxides, zirconium oxides, manganese violet, prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric blue, and their mixtures. The organic pigments may be, for example: cochineal carmine, organic pigments of azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene, pyrenic, quinoline, triphenylmethane or fluoran dyes; organic lakes or insoluble salts of sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, titanium, acid dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene, pyrenic, quinoline dyes , triphenylmethane, fluoran. These dyes generally comprise at least one carboxylic or sulphonic acid group; melanic pigments. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of D & C Blue No. 4, D & C Brown No. 1, D & C Green No. 5, D & C Green No. 6, D & C Orange No. 4, D & C Orange No. 5, D & C Orange No. 10 , D & C Orange No. 11, D & C Red No. 6, D & C Red No. 7, D & C Red No. 17, D & C Red No. 21, D & C Red No. 22, D & C Red No. 27, D & C Red No. 28, D & C Red Red No. 30, D & C Red No. 31, D & C Red No. 33, D & C Red No. 34, D & C Red No. 36, D & C Violet No. 2, D & C Yellow No. 7, D & C Yellow No. 8, D & C Yellow No. ° 10, D & C Yellow No. 11, FD & C Blue No. 1, FD & C Green No. 3, FD & C Red No. 40, FD & C Yellow No. 5, FD & C Yellow No. 6. The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from silicones such as meticones, dimethicones and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, hydrogenated tallow glutamate aluminum salt, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkyl silanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, amino acids ; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.
[0079] The N-acyl amino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zin, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine. The alkyl term mentioned in the compounds mentioned above denotes in particular an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms. carbon atoms. Hydrophobic-treated pigments are described in particular in application EP-A-1086683. For the purposes of the present application, the term "mother-of-pearl" means colored particles of any shape, iridescent or otherwise, especially produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference. Examples of pearlescent agents include pearlescent pigments such as iron oxide coated titanium mica, bismuth oxychloride coated mica, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica covered with an organic dye including the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs. The nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper color or reflection. By way of illustration, pearlescent agents which can be introduced as interference pigment in the first composition include gold-colored pearlescent agents marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Brillant gold 25 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacres sold especially by ENGELHARD 30 under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by MERCK under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); brown-colored pearlescent agents marketed by Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); nacres with a copper sheen sold especially by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red glint sold especially by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored pearlescent agents marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red-colored pearlescent agents with a gold glint sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink nacres sold especially by Engelhard under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with gold reflection sold by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), the white nacres with reflection silver sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver and the golden-green orange-colored mother-of-pearl marketed by Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures. The composition according to the invention may also be free of coloring matter. According to this embodiment, the composition may be a care composition, preferably skin or lips.
[0080] According to this embodiment, the composition according to the invention may advantageously be a lip balm. Charges A cosmetic composition used according to the invention may also comprise at least one filler, of organic or mineral nature. By "charge" is meant colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Of mineral or organic nature, they make it possible to impart body or stiffness to the composition, and / or softness, and uniformity to make-up. They are distinct from the dyestuffs Among the fillers that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of silica, kaolin, bentone, starch, lauroyl-lysine or fumed silica particles, optionally treated with hydrophilic or hydrophobic, and mixtures thereof. A composition used according to the invention may comprise one or more fillers in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 1% to 10% by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprising comprises at least one compound chosen from fillers, waxes, pasty fatty substances, semi-crystalline polymers and / or lipophilic gelling agents, and mixtures thereof. Additional Usual Cosmetic Ingredients A composition used according to the invention may furthermore comprise any usual cosmetic ingredient that may be chosen in particular from antioxidants, additional film-forming polymers (lipophilic or hydrophilic), distinct from alkycellulose and in particular from ethylcellulose, perfumes, preservatives, neutralizers, sunscreens, sweeteners, vitamins, anti-free radical agents, sequestering agents, and mixtures thereof.
[0081] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional ingredients and / or their quantity so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or substantially not impaired by the addition envisaged.
[0082] A composition according to the invention may more particularly be a composition for makeup and / or care of the skin and / or the lips, in particular the lips. A composition according to the invention may constitute a liquid lipstick for the lips, a body makeup product, a facial or body care product or an antisolar product. According to a preferred embodiment, a composition of the invention is in liquid form. By way of illustration of the liquid formulations, mention may be made especially of glosses for the lips. In particular, the composition according to the invention may be a lip ink. The composition according to the invention can be applied preferably with the aid of an applicator, for example a brush.
[0083] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is an oil-in-water emulsion. The composition according to the invention can be manufactured by known methods, generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological field. As specified above, the composition according to the invention is homogeneous and provides access to a deposit having good cosmetic properties, particularly in terms of brightness, comfort, no feeling of tightness and fresh, thin and light deposit. The present invention will be better understood by means of the following examples.
[0084] These are presented by way of illustration of the invention and can not be interpreted as limiting the scope thereof. Example 1: Lipsticks in the form of lipstick The following composition of Liquid Lipsticks was prepared. The composition 1 according to the invention comprises water, ethylcellulose, a first non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (Octyldodecanol), a second nonvolatile silicone oil (Belsil 1000), a third hydrocarbon oil and a surfactant. Compounds (chemical name / commercial reference) Example 1 according to the invention (% by weight) Ethylcellulose 26.2% in water; sodium lauryl sulfate (1.3%) and cetyl alcohol (2.5%) AQUACOAT ECD 30 from FMC Biopolymer 9.6 Octyldodecanol 7.1 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone (BELSIL PDM 1000 from Wacker) 15 POLYISOBUTENE HYDROGEN (PARLEAM 6.8 Compounds (Chemical name / trade reference) Example 1 according to the invention (% by weight) NOF Corporation) WATER QSP 100 ETHANOL 3 Mixture of sorbitan stearate, sucrose cocoate (Arlacel 2121U-FL from Croda) 4 HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR (JAGUAR HP 105 of Rhodia) 0.5 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.5 RED 7 1 Total: 100 Preparation protocol: 1) The fatty phase composed of phenyl silicone oil, PARLEAM oil and previously ground pigments was heated in a skillet. in 3 / 7th of octyldodecanol at 55 ° C. 2) The surfactant was added and mixed with stirring at 55 ° C until the mixture was homogeneous; 3) In a beaker, ethylcellulose and octyldodecanol were poured. The Rayneri-type deflocculator was then shaken for 55 ° C and the water, gelling agent, preservative and Rayneri mixture were added at 55 ° C until a homogeneous mixture was obtained. 4) In a second skillet, this mixture was then poured into the fat phase and stirred (Rayneri deflocculator) until the mixture reached room temperature. The ethanol was then added and stirred for 5 minutes. 5) The product was finally packaged in lip gloss trays.
[0085] After 24h at room temperature, the compositions obtained were evaluated and their viscosity was measured according to the protocol described above. The stability of the compositions was evaluated by placing the compositions obtained for 72 hours at 24 ° C. and for 72 hours at 45 ° C. In particular, it is checked whether a phase shift, the formation of grains, or a variation of the viscosity are observed. Evaluation of Example 1 Compositions according to the invention As from the composition p The composition is homogeneous and stable at 24 ° C. and at 45 ° C. C. Viscosity Liquid Form and Viscosity 0 composition (Pa. $) 0.3 Pa.s Mobile 2 Compositions 1 and 2 according to the invention comprise making it possible to obtain a lipstick in the liquid form for the lips. The composition obtained is homogeneous. Each of the compositions was applied to the lips with a lip gloss applicator so as to form a homogeneous thickness deposit the ease of application as well as the appearance of the deposit was evaluated. In addition, the stickiness of the deposit was evaluated during the drying of the formula after 2 minutes at room temperature. For this, a finger was applied, at the end of the specified drying time, to the applied formula and the tack was appreciated by the subject at the removal of his finger from the applied formula. For the composition 1 according to the invention, the application on the lips is easy (sliding on application and easy application). The deposits obtained are homogeneous, light, fine and fresh. In addition, the deposits obtained are low tack, non-migrating and of satisfactory gloss.

权利要求:
Claims (19)
[0001]
REVENDICATIONS1. Liquid makeup cosmetic composition and / or care of the lips comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: at least 20% water; preferably at least 30% water; at least ethylcellulose; at least octyldodecanol as the first non-volatile hydrocarbon oil; at least one phenyl silicone oil as a second non-volatile liquid oil at room temperature, i.e. 25 ° C, and atmospheric pressure, i.e. 760 mmHg; at least one third liquid oil at room temperature, i.e. 25 ° C., and atmospheric pressure, i.e. 760 mmHg, said third oil being selected from hydrocarbon oils different from said first oil; at least one surfactant, preferably nonionic surfactant.
[0002]
2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.
[0003]
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has a viscosity at 20 ° C of between 0.05 and 1.5 Pa.s, preferably between 0.08 and 1 Pa.s, preferably between 0.1 and 0.7 Pa.s.
[0004]
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ethylcellulose is present in a content of between 1 and 60% by weight, preferably between 2 and 30% by weight, more preferably between 2, 5 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0005]
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a content ranging from 5 to 75% by weight of second (s) non-volatile oil (s) silicone (s), in particular from 8 to 40% by weight, and more particularly from 10 to 30% by weight, relative to its total weight.
[0006]
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said first non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is present in a content ranging from 2% to 75%, in particular from 5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 50% by weight. 409% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0007]
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the first non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and ethylcellulose are used in the composition according to the invention in a weight ratio of non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil to ethylcellulose of between 0.5. and 20, preferably between 1 and 15, particularly preferably between 2 and 10.
[0008]
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises between 20 and 95% by weight of water, preferably between 30 and 90%, preferably between 40% and 85% by weight of water. water, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0009]
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises: - between 2 and 30% by weight of ethylcellulose, - between 30 and 85% by weight of water, - between 10 and 50% in total weight of non-volatile oils.
[0010]
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the third oil is an apolar oil, preferably non-volatile, preferably selected from paraffin oil, liquid petroleum jelly, naphthalene oil polybutylenes, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes, decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, and mixtures thereof, said third oil preferably being present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 40% by weight; weight, preferably ranging from 1 to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 2 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0011]
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the third oil is a volatile hydrocarbon oil, in particular chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and in particular branched alkanes containing C8-C16, such as iso-C8-C16 isoalkanes, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, linear alkanes, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), and mixtures thereof, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (C //) and n-tridecane (C11), and mixtures thereof.
[0012]
12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the surfactant is nonionic and selected from poly (alkylene oxide) and poly (polyethylene oxide) esters, oxyalkylenated alcohols, alkyls. and poly (ethylene oxide) polyalkyl ethers, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ether, alkyl and polyalkyl glycosides or polyglycosides , in particular the alkyl- and polyalkylglucosides or polyglucosides, the alkyl- and polyalkyl-sucrose esters, the alkyl- and polyalkyl-glycerol esters, polyoxyethylenated or otherwise, the polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl- and polyalkylethers of glycerol; , geminal surfactants, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0013]
13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the surfactant is chosen from amino acid derivatives and in particular glutamates, and / or alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose, in particular C 12 -C 26 alkyl esters, preferably such as sucrose stearate, and / or such as the mixture of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate; and their mixtures.
[0014]
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of agent (s) surfactant (s) is between 0.1% and 20% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0015]
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one dyestuff.
[0016]
16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one compound chosen from fillers, waxes, hydrophilic gelling agents, pasty fatty substances, semi-crystalline polymers and / or gelling agents. lipophilic, and mixtures thereof.
[0017]
17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said composition being a lip gloss or a lipstick.
[0018]
18. A cosmetic process for makeup and / or care of the lips, comprising at least one step consisting in applying to lips at least one composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 17.
[0019]
19. A cosmetic process for makeup and / or care of the lips, comprising at least one step consisting in applying to the lips at least one cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: at least water; at least ethylcellulose; at least octyldodecanol as the first non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, at least one phenyl silicone oil as second nonvolatile oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, i.e. 25 ° C., and atmospheric pressure, i.e. 760 mmHg; at least one third liquid oil at room temperature, i.e. 25 ° C., and atmospheric pressure, i.e. 760 mmHg, said third oil being selected from hydrocarbon oils different from said first oil; at least one surfactant, preferably nonionic surfactant.

类似技术:

---

公开号 | 公开日 | 专利标题

---

FR3019462A1|2015-10-09|AQUEOUS LIQUID COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ALKYLCELLULOSE, NON-VOLATILE OILS AND AT LEAST ONE SURFACTANT

---

KR102035363B1|2019-10-22|Aqueous cosmetic composition comprising alkylcellulose, non-volatile oils, at least one wax and at least one particular hydrophilic gelling agent

---

FR2999921A1|2014-06-27|Cosmetic composition in the form of aqueous emulsion, useful for caring keratinous materials e.g. lips, comprises water, alkylcellulose |, non-volatile oil, and stabilizing agent, in medium

---

FR3015249A1|2015-06-26|AQUEOUS COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ALKYLCELLULOSE, NON-VOLATILE OILS, A HYDROPHILIC GELIFYING POLYMER AND A POLYOL

---

FR3015277A1|2015-06-26|COMPOSITION FOR INVERSE EMULSION LIP COMPRISING A HUMICANT AGENT, PROCESSING METHOD EMPLOYING THE SAME

---

FR3037794A1|2016-12-30|AQUEOUS COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ALKYLCELLULOSE, AT LEAST ONE NON-VOLATILE OIL, A HYDROCARBONATED RESIN

---

FR3002734A1|2014-09-05|A METHOD OF MAKE-UP AND / OR LIP CARE USING AN AQUEOUS COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ALKYLCELLULOSE

---

WO2014097258A2|2014-06-26|Aqueous cosmetic composition comprising alkylcellulose

---

FR2968973A1|2012-06-22|Cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for lips or skin, in particular the lips, and more particularly a lipstick, comprises water, alkylcellulose, first hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil, second non-volatile oil, and stabilizer

---

FR2999922A1|2014-06-27|Cosmetic composition in the form of aqueous emulsion, useful for caring keratinous materials e.g. lips, comprises water, alkylcellulose |, non-volatile oils, and stabilizing agent, in medium

---

FR2985180A1|2013-07-05|WATER EMULSION IN OIL COMPRISING ALKYLCELLULOSE, NON-VOLATILE OILS, AND AT LEAST ONE SURFACTANT

---

KR102025961B1|2019-09-26|Aqueous cosmetic composition comprising alkylcellulose, non-volatile oils, at least one wax and at least one gemini surfactant

---

FR3054792A1|2018-02-09|AQUEOUS COMPOSITION COMPRISING ALKYLCELLULOSE AND AROMATIC HYDROCARBON OIL AND TREATMENT METHOD EMPLOYING THE SAME

---

FR2992205A1|2013-12-27|Cosmetic composition, useful e.g. for making up and/or caring skin and/or lips, preferably lips, comprises water, alkylcellulose, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, non-volatile fatty phase liquid, and stabilizing agent

---

FR2964873A1|2012-03-23|Cosmetic process for care of lips, comprises applying composition comprising water, alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose, active agent e.g. moisturizing agents, non-volatile oil and non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, on lips

---

FR2985179A1|2013-07-05|Solid composition used as lipstick for making up and/or caring of lips, comprises water, alkylcellulose, nonvolatile hydrocarbon oils, anionic surfactant consisting of e.g. metallic salts of linear fatty acid, and non-ionic surfactant

---

FR2985177A1|2013-07-05|Solid composition used as lipstick for making up and/or caring of lips, comprises water, alkylcellulose, nonvolatile hydrocarbon oils, anionic surfactant consisting of e.g. metallic salts of linear fatty acid, and non-ionic surfactant

---

FR2985178A1|2013-07-05|AQUEOUS COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ALKYLCELLULOSE, NON-VOLATILE OILS, A PARTICULAR WAX AND A SURFACTANT

---

FR2999923A1|2014-06-27|Makeup and/or caring composition for lips and/or skin, comprises water, alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose, first non volatile oil including e.g. silicone oils, stabilizing agent including e.g. surfactants, and solid fatty substance

---

FR2964872A1|2012-03-23|Cosmetic composition, useful for care of lips or skin, comprises in medium, water, alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose, non-volatile oil comprising silicone oil and/or fluorinated oil and non-volatile hydrocarbon oil

---

FR2968982A1|2012-06-22|Cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for lips or skin, in particular the lips, and more particularly a lipstick, comprises water, alkylcellulose, first hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil, second non-volatile oil, and stabilizer

---

FR2968981A1|2012-06-22|Cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for lips or skin, in particular the lips, and more particularly a lipstick, comprises water, alkylcellulose, first hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil, second non-volatile oil, and stabilizer

---

FR2968976A1|2012-06-22|Composition, useful as a makeup and/or care composition for lips or skin, preferably a lipstick, comprises water, alkylcellulose, preferably ethylcellulose, hydrocarbonated oil, and silicone compound comprising e.g. polysiloxane

同族专利:

---

公开号 | 公开日

---

CN104144672B|2016-11-16|

---

JP5905605B2|2016-04-20|

---

KR101413849B1|2014-06-30|

---

EP2800547A2|2014-11-12|

---

FR2985176B1|2015-05-29|

---

DK2800547T3|2016-09-19|

---

JP2015503532A|2015-02-02|

---

FR2985176A1|2013-07-05|

---

US20200214963A1|2020-07-09|

---

FR3019462B1|2020-11-13|

---

KR20130102641A|2013-09-17|

---

US20140377202A1|2014-12-25|

---

ES2590494T3|2016-11-22|

---

WO2013102567A2|2013-07-11|

---

DE202012013241U1|2015-08-03|

---

KR101413802B1|2014-07-01|

---

DE202012013240U1|2015-08-03|

---

EP2800547B1|2016-07-13|

---

DE202012013233U1|2015-07-14|

---

KR20130099248A|2013-09-05|

---

PL2800547T3|2016-12-30|

---

WO2013102567A3|2014-07-03|

---

DE202012013232U1|2015-07-14|

---

CN104144672A|2014-11-12|

引用文献:

---

公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题

---

US4699779A|1986-02-18|1987-10-13|Victor Palinczar|Waterproof sunscreen compositions|

---

US5908631A|1997-02-27|1999-06-01|L'oreal S.A.|Monohydric alcohol-free composition for topical use comprising solubilized ethylcellulose|

---

WO2005046626A2|2003-11-07|2005-05-26|L'oreal|Make-up or lip care composition comprising an oil in water emulsion and a hydrophilic active agent|

---

US156911A|1874-11-17|Improvement in fruit-driers |

---

FR853634A|1938-04-29|1940-03-23|Ericsson Telefon Ab L M|Measuring devices|

---

US3915921A|1974-07-02|1975-10-28|Goodrich Co B F|Unsaturated carboxylic acid-long chain alkyl ester copolymers and tri-polymers water thickening agents and emulsifiers|

---

US4509949A|1983-06-13|1985-04-09|The B. F. Goodrich Company|Water thickening agents consisting of copolymers of crosslinked acrylic acids and esters|

---

AU612965B2|1985-08-12|1991-07-25|Ciba Specialty Chemicals Water Treatments Limited|Polymeric thickeners and their production|

---

US5156911A|1989-05-11|1992-10-20|Landec Labs Inc.|Skin-activated temperature-sensitive adhesive assemblies|

---

JP3968125B2|1994-11-03|2007-08-29|エスティーローダーインコーポレーテッド|Sprayable composition containing dispersed powder and use thereof|

---

US5747017A|1995-05-15|1998-05-05|Lip-Ink International|Lip cosmetic|

---

FR2756176B1|1996-11-26|1998-12-18|Oreal|COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A FLUORINATED COMPOUND AND HAVING IMPROVED COMFORT|

---

US5879670A|1997-03-31|1999-03-09|Calgon Corporation|Ampholyte polymers for use in personal care products|

---

DE69910880T2|1998-04-21|2004-07-15|L'oreal|A composition containing olefin copolymer with controlled crystallization for topical use|

---

FR2792190B1|1999-04-16|2001-09-28|Sophim|PROCESS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF A NON-FATTY EMOLLIENT BASED ON WAX-ESTERS|

---

FR2796278B1|1999-07-16|2002-05-03|Oreal|USE OF AT LEAST ONE HYDROXYSTILBENE AS AN ANTI-GLYCATION AGENT|

---

US7101928B1|1999-09-17|2006-09-05|Landec Corporation|Polymeric thickeners for oil-containing compositions|

---

JP3631927B2|1999-09-22|2005-03-23|ロレアル|Gel composition and its use in cosmetics, etc.|

---

FR2802420B1|1999-12-21|2002-02-22|Oreal|USE OF 3.3 ', 5.5'-TETRAHYDROXYSTILBENE AS ANTI-GLYCATION AGENT|

---

FR2802425B1|1999-12-21|2003-09-26|Oreal|USE OF AN EXTRACT OF AT LEAST ONE PLANT FROM THE ERICACEAE FAMILY AS AN ANTI-GLYCATION AGENT|

---

FR2810548A1|2000-06-26|2001-12-28|Oreal|USE OF ERGOTHIONEIN AND / OR ITS DERIVATIVES AS AN ANTI-GLYCATION AGENT|

---

FR2818547B1|2000-12-22|2006-11-17|Oreal|NOVEL C-GLYCOSIDE DERIVATIVES AND USE|

---

US20040197284A1|2003-04-04|2004-10-07|Frederic Auguste|Cosmetic composition comprising a volatile fatty phase|

---

US20050008667A1|2003-05-28|2005-01-13|L'oreal|Cosmetic compositions for making up and/or caring for skin|

---

FR2861986B1|2003-11-07|2007-12-14|Oreal|MAKE-UP COMPOSITION COMPRISING EMULSION|

---

CA2573802C|2004-07-12|2011-09-13|E-L Management Corp.|High gloss, non-feathering lip product comprising a water-insoluble polysaccharide and a polyol ester|

---

AT442064T|2004-10-05|2009-09-15|Oreal|MAKE-UP KIT AND METHOD|

---

WO2008155059A2|2007-06-19|2008-12-24|Cognis Ip Management Gmbh|Hydrocarbon mixtures and use thereof|

---

CA2713555C|2008-02-20|2014-10-14|Elc Management Llc|Topical compositions and methods for whitening skin|

---

FR2934129B1|2008-07-24|2014-05-02|Oreal|COSMETIC TREATMENT PROCESS.|

---

US9050475B2|2010-02-09|2015-06-09|Md Solarsciences Corp.|High SPF sunscreen compositions|

---

EP2618803B1|2010-09-20|2016-04-06|L'Oréal|Aqueous cosmetic composition comprising alkylcellulose|

---

DK2618811T3|2010-09-20|2015-04-07|Oréal L|AQUEOUS COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING alkylcellulose|FR2985175B1|2012-01-02|2015-11-06|Oreal|AQUEOUS COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ALKYLCELLULOSE, NON-VOLATILE OILS, AT LEAST ONE WAX AND AT LEAST ONE GEMINE SURFACTANT|

---

FR2985174B1|2012-01-02|2014-03-07|Oreal|AQUEOUS COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ALKYLCELLULOSE, NON-VOLATILE OILS, AT LEAST ONE WAX AND AT LEAST ONE PARTICULAR HYDROPHILIC GELIFIER|

---

FR3015249B1|2013-12-23|2017-08-25|Oreal|AQUEOUS COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ALKYLCELLULOSE, NON-VOLATILE OILS, A HYDROPHILIC GELIFYING POLYMER AND A POLYOL|

---

FR3029106B1|2014-12-02|2018-09-14|L'oreal|EMULSION COMPRISING A GEMINE SURFACTANT HAVING TWO FATTY AMIDE GROUPS AND A C-GLYCOSIDE DERIVATIVE OR A TETRAHYDROJASMONIC ACID DERIVATIVE|

---

FR3037794B1|2015-06-26|2017-07-07|Oreal|AQUEOUS COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ALKYLCELLULOSE, AT LEAST ONE NON-VOLATILE OIL, A HYDROCARBONATED RESIN|

---

JP6147897B1|2016-06-29|2017-06-14|株式会社 資生堂|Oil-in-water emulsified lip cosmetic|

---

FR3060386B1|2016-12-21|2020-10-02|Oreal|COMPOSITION FOR THE LIPS IN THE FORM OF A LIQUID REVERSE EMULSION.|

---

JP6910207B2|2017-05-26|2021-07-28|花王株式会社|Oily cosmetics|

---

WO2018218497A1|2017-05-31|2018-12-06|L'oreal|Composition of pickering emulsion comprising pearls in fatty phase|

---

KR102183234B1|2018-02-05|2020-11-25|한양대학교 산학협력단|Hair cleansing composition comprising alkyl cellulose nanoparticle|

---

CN110711153A|2019-11-28|2020-01-21|广州那比昂生物科技有限公司|Lip composition with plumping and moisturizing effects and preparation method and application thereof|

法律状态:
2015-12-08| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |

---

2016-03-25| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20160325 |

---

2017-02-27| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 6 |

---

2017-12-11| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 7 |

---

2019-12-16| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 9 |

---

2020-12-10| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 10 |

---

2021-12-17| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 11 |

优先权:

---

申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题

---

FR1250017A|FR2985176B1|2012-01-02|2012-01-02|AQUEOUS LIQUID COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ALKYLCELLULOSE, NON-VOLATILE OILS AND AT LEAST ONE SURFACTANT|

---

FR1553010A|FR3019462B1|2012-01-02|2015-04-08|AQUEOUS LIQUID COSMETIC COMPOSITION CONSISTING OF ALKYLCELLULOSE, NON-VOLATILE OILS AND AT LEAST ONE SURFACTANT|FR1553010A| FR3019462B1|2012-01-02|2015-04-08|AQUEOUS LIQUID COSMETIC COMPOSITION CONSISTING OF ALKYLCELLULOSE, NON-VOLATILE OILS AND AT LEAST ONE SURFACTANT|